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Yea... I did. Running through a host of other minor issues like no tach, no temp and nooilpressure readings. The 5v converter is gone TU on me I think.
Oilpressure is very simple. It's flow volume minus internal leaks minus viscosity. At idle the volume can not be increased by a stiffer spring or shimming the spring unless the by pass is open at idle. Which is not the case at 20psi. The internal leaks can't be changed at this point w/o engine...
That's really cool to see the actual tool originally used to calibrate the gauges. I also note that each gauge is tuned slightly different on the plus/minus target. Definitely, great info.
To clarify on my question, I have already done the gauges, although not with that exact extra "+/-...
Leaks way too much, No that's not going to work. And if it leaks that much it's probably the rear main, because there is oilpressure there.
Did you tighten the oil pan bolts?
All fluids that have been opened has a life.
All engine and transmission seals are designed to be run warm and with clean fluid to keep them supple and sealing.
Old oil contaminates turn sludgy, The main seals get hard and leak, Transmission seals no longer seal. Hoses and belts harden and lose...
How screwed am I? Should I pull the engine right away or just the head? I am certain I caught this right away, it couldn't have run more than 45 seconds with coolant in the oil but that's long enough for it to circulate and get in all my nice new bearings. Experience only here please is a flush...
I'm a novice at all of this and learning as I go. The carbon build up is something I often forget. If the motor is tuned well and no detonation or pinging, I suppose with miles over time there will still be carbon build up? I just looked back at my records and my 10.2:1 motor with aluminum...
I purchased 1966 Coronet 318/727 2025-01-16, original 318 poly replaced with later 1970 318 LA 29K miles since built. Aftermarket cam, specs unknown, no lope.
Vacuum at 1000 rpm is 12 inches, not steady. Increases to 17 inches steady at 1800 rpm.
Replaced all hoses and rubber plugs. No change in...
Hello! I have been trying to diagnose this noise before embarking on removing the lifters. Link to Video open to all recommendations or ideas before I start pulling lifters/ deeper disassembly. This is my first old school engine, so take it easy on me.
Symptoms:
1. First time I noticed this...
Ok, strange experience yesterday and would like to share to see what this group thinks.
About the car/engine:
It's a 400ci in a '67 Coronet 440. Engine oil was a little on the old side. Oil pres. gage working and tested. I know nothing about the engine/car, just purchased about 3 weeks ago...
There's recommendations of heavier oil, big pumps, and I wouldn't do any of that. 10w30 " might" be a little light on a worn engine but not a deal breaker. I have a stock 440 with a stock pump with red spring, stock bearings and clearances, stock valve train and all. I've done 10w30, straight...
1969 Superbee Rallye dash, was removed, cleaned, new gage backgrounds, painted needles. All lamps removed, contact areas cleaned, all new lamps installed.
Before all this, everything worked, all 4 gages, even the fuel gage worked! Now--- only voltage gage works, the other 3 dead. All lights...
There are millions of factory engineered vehicles with roller lifters.
The big block Mopar was never fitted with them. ALL factory LA and Magnum series roller engines had taller lifter bosses that supported the lifters better. They had improved oiling to accommodate the longer/taller lifter...
Before I start, yes, I read all related threads and yes, I should just take off the valve covers and evaluate. Until I can do that, this is bugging me and I’m inquiring to see if there is something obvious I could be missing—>
I noticed a lifter tick upon taking an off ramp (right turn) at a...
I think this may all stem from a possible problem at the bulkhead or fusible link as I just lost power to the oilpressure idiot light... With key on it no longer illuminates.
I have a 68 Charger and read every ralley gauge cluster thread here and across the web- and I still cannot solve this issue.
My dead gauges came back functioning after I replaced the IVR with the RTE solid state limiter but something along thr way happened and now when I turn my lights on, my...