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I’d do a triangulated 4 link. Doesn’t require a “torque arm” cause essentially that’s all you’re doing nor does it need a Watts link to keep it centered.

and jet's and rods they didn't use. Sad to pay $150 for a kit so you have every combination you may need and after you get it dialed in, you only use a pair of each. :BangHead: :rofl:

Pardon Our Interruption...

Thanks for all the input, guys. My wiring is in better condition than I expected, my bulkhead connectors look very good (I have all this depicted in my project thread), I no longer have a stereo or alarm system, I'm using LEDs in the dash and console and may swap in some more, and my ammeter...

I would take a magnet all over that car...especially where the trunk lock cylinder is, lower rear quarters and rear quarter arches. I had a 2 door hardtop 440 and a donor R/T to make a clone in the 80's. Both cars had similar rust patterns. When it was restored I truly loved the car. One of my...

yeah i got the spring kit.. $50 for 8 springs... that helped a ton though I might just put a wanted ad on both forums.. someone might have a kit laying around

Yeah.. RRR talked me into it.. and it's been good, no off idle issues or anything weird.. it's just a bit rich and i have a little miss when cruising around 2800 or so.. I'm going to install a o2 sensor before i do anything else though.. I wish i could get my block back from the machinist :( i...

It looks like you can buy primary jets and step up springs separately from Summit. I haven't found metering rods yet.

Still looking for homes for these two. Tuxedo and Squeaky. Lakeland, Florida.

Thanks. I haven't been paying attention close enough. I had a T Quad on my 73 Challenger for years and Q Jets on 3 of the 4 tool trucks I owned. That design really works well. Too bad you can't buy a kit or pieces to tune yours a little leaner without buying the carb over again.

Hey FBBO, my dad and I spend a lot of time restoring our cars – mainly our ’68 Charger RT – and over the years we’ve ended up making a few parts that (as far as I know) nobody else really offers. Since we had to figure this stuff out for ourselves, I thought I’d share a couple of them here in...

That's what i have, the street demon.. and honestly it's been great but it's a bit rich and needs tuning.. the tuning kits are $125-140... and for the 750 it's like 4 metering rods and 6 jets... and i might end up needing the 650 kit to lean it enough.. which means i am now into it as much as i...

I am posting a list of parts I used for installing a Vintage Air system in my 1964 Polara. The car previously had a factory A/C system in it, so I already had the appropriate pullies, brackets, and dash vents. Perhaps the Mods can make a "sticky" of this post. Dave

What's the new one that looks like a Thermoquad? Any good?

the problem i have is the oil pan rubber gasket is very stiff and it will not allow th e cover to go on loose enough to set the harmonic damper. .

If you were to run the factory wires of a 2 post ballast resistor . The wire that goes to the Mopar ecu is full battery in run. You would use this same wire for your HEI module . The coil wire is what sees the resistance of thr ballast not the ECU / module THIS IS NOT TRUE for a 4 post...

That being said..... I'm critical of whether they are MW heads or not.. There's a pic of a 4bbl intake They talk about running a tunnel ram The crossram is a mopar performance piece. Just leans towards the likelihood that they are stock ports..

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Send it back. I would not accept it.