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It is easy for those of us with nothing to lose to tell you to not worry. I've had a few different mini starters in the big block cars. They came with a bolt on offset terminal adapter, I run without one to keep the cables closer to the block and away from the header. I know that it is tight up...

Degreeing doesn't take long. It does help to confirm that the cam and timing set are within tolerances! How about measuring for bell housing runout? It sure is easier with the engine out of the car!

Degreeing a cam seems like a nightmare to me, I've only done one cam swap but that was back when degreeeing wasn't so widely discussed so I just lined up the dots and was a second quicker at the dragstrip that weekend.

Here are some better pictures. There is also about a 1/8" gap between the 2 terminals. If it were you, would you leave it or get the relocation kit?

Its more about the lug location on this starter. What do you mean by getting the correct sized lug?

I always forget the procedure to degree a camshaft. I have the tools but each time I go to do one, I have to refresh my memory about it all. I can assemble engines without looking up torque specs, do just about any suspension-brake-steering job without help but steps to degreeing the camshaft...

Thanks for the help everyone! I found the 5/16" inverted flare to 3/8" NPT adapter on Ebay. Its on the way:) For the barbed fitting, the local ace hardware store has a brass fitting with a 3/8" barb and a 3/8" NPT. Its in a package marketed toward air tools or air hose. That's just a packaging...

The first seven characters of the VIN would dress up the report. Full VIN can be part of the report.

I bought the starter version of some of those tools, like a vise mounted bead roller and a HF bending brake all to have new toys and patch my floors. Same attitude, it’s not perfect but it gets covered anyway. Some people saw the patches and said it looked good but I never know if those kinds of...

The E on the block tells us model year 1969 and a 7-23-68 casting indicates a 69 model year block. The H because it’s a 383 and the G because the OP said so in post 3.

If you get modeling skills together or a 3d scanner you can do a lot of things, I was looking at signal switches and with all the plastic I wonder if that’s a candidate, assuming if the plastic cracking is why they go bad.

General Shinseki brought the berets back for all the soldiers. Black was for most, red airborne, tan Rangers, and green SF. I also hated wearing them.

I found this one in my storage, has a couple small dents on the back, and one small black spot on the mirror. But overall I would say it was a nice driver quality one. If you would like this one PM me your mailing address and I will send it to you.

The AVS wont solve anything. Just change the cam. I run a comp xs290s solid flat tappet in my 499, street car with a six barrel and trick flow heads but I have run an 800 AVS and a brawler 950 on it previously. AVS is too small, brawler was great but if I ever ditch the six pack I would not be...

I think it if it works run it, since its one of the old style MSD units it fits in with the retro vibe of your car. Keystone klassics, 8 track player, custom paint on the roof, the old MSD will fit right in.

Just get rid of the spring and be glad that you did. I fixed two cars people had left them in when they installed a diaphragm clutch. I didn’t know about this deal and found out when I wanted rid of the non returning pedal.

I have yet to use a Flowkooler brand, it I have used three edelbrocks that have an improved impeller that purports to have the same sort of benefits as Flowkooler. My current 440 car has factory ac and the 26 inches of course. Since this is my third car with the high flow pump, I’m seriously...

The orange and black go to the coil. Reds the trigger. White goes nowhere( points). The weird connector is your magnetic pickup. Try it both ways.