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I'm glad it all worked out for you.

Thank you.

I'm guilty of not looking at the adds, before I made my comment. I am Canadian, so I apologize.

The 7-1 -68 is the closest to the original manifold, so use thar one. Any manifold with a casting date two weeks to a month before the engine build date would be perfect. I had an engine with a block casting date one week before the engine build date.

The numbers are not on the trunk lip in 66-67. See above posts, with pictures.

Factory parts and shop manuals, are sometimes wrong, and are not necessarily the last word.

The undercoating looks fresh, so mineral spirits might work. If not, try heat and a scraper. You only need to see a couple of digits to see if it matches the rad support, vs the IBM card. The location of the stamp is not exact, but it should be in the general area, mine was not under the bumper...

Not that it matters, but the VIN code D is a 273.

I believe the 67 bearing is a one year deal, and very hard to find. You might be able to make a 68 up one work.

The rear body code is on the rear crossmember, usually between the two bumper brackets. If it is rusty in that area you might not be able to see it. If you can't find it, then the rad support is all you have. If it looks factory original then I would have to say, VIN swap.

Tho SO number on the rad support should match the SO number on the IBM card. Check the rear body code to see if it matches the front. If it does then the IBM card and the VIN tag do not belong to your car

One strap on 66-67 B bodies

I know nothing on the subject, but it makes sense to me.

One more note. 68 and 69 440 cars got 3/8" pickup tubes but 5/16" fuel lines.

440 B bodies did not get a 3/8" fuel line until 1970, regardless of carburation.

B bodies used the engine side firewall linkage on hemi cars to clear the valve covers. The other B bodies had it in the inside of the firewall. I can't believe there is any difference between the two as far as overall pedal ratio is concerned.

Those races are removable, just knock them out from the Inside, the back of the races are usually exposed enough to hit or press on. If not, then a small weld bead on the race surface will shrink them and they will fall out.

New rotors usually come with the cups installed.

Never mind.

You will need a four speed top plate, and there is a separate side piece that covers the floor hump.