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So far my Steer & Gear box I ordered 1-1/2 years ago is performing fine. Not many miles but so far so good. They were also cooperative - they took my old manual box as a $200 core on a power steering box. Also I needed a different orientated valve port on top for clearance and they swapped...
My thought too. Good chance it could get lost going overseas and is sitting in an import warehouse. But most responsible sellers provide the tracking number. However, if it was shipped and lost it’s up to the shipper to pursue a claim as he paid the shipping and insurance and has the...
I’ve noticed that some rebuild kits don’t have new brass syncro rings. I’ve only worked on a Muncie and a Toploader but I couldn’t imagine tearing a transmission apart and not replacing the brass rings. But if it’s a syncro issue you probably will have a grunch noise or grinding trying to get...
When you turn the wheel can you see any movement on the gear box side of the coupler in the shaft into the gear box? If not it could be the coupler has been apart and not put together correctly. I managed to put the shoe pieces into a coupler sideways. I somehow sensed I hadn’t paid attention...
Could they be interference nuts? I remember the u-joint straps on my ERA Cobra they supplied in my package that I built were interference fit - a real pain. Don’t know where they came up with them. If not that they must be cross threaded or something.
With a diaphragm clutch in my 66 and the over-center spring installed, I had a hitch point in the pedal movement about 1 to 1-1/2” from the top. The pedal would rest there unless I adjusted the clutch to where it was fully engaged just above that hitch point so the clutch fingers could push it...
Short, soft bristle material as used on the inside is often sold for the outer trim instead of rubber. But I believe OEM was rubber. I wouldn’t worry about changing them unless the car will be out in the weather a lot or being judged at shows.
Please ignore. I found a switch terminal layout and wiring diagram in my 1967 service manual that matches up to his 69 RR but it’s for a Fury, not B-body. But I was able to trace the terminal and circuits out with it and the way they are being activated seems to make sense so it’s probably good.
A friend gave me a used toggle switch for his 69 Roadrunner to see if I could determine if it’s good before he installs it. They are kind of painful to change out and right now his cluster is out having the speedometer repaired.
It has what seems to be the 5 typical terminals as they match...
Loosen the locknut and looking forward, turn the big nut CCW to lengthen the rod adjustment. If you prefer a reference from the front looking back, yes, you would turn it CW in that case.
It’s down behind the starter. There will be a threaded rod and spring connecting between the clutch fork and and the z-bar. Some pictures. To move the clutch engagement off the floor you will need to turn the rod to lengthen it.
Guess I’m just the old, odd man out on points. Except for my transistor ignition (TI) 66 Corvette, my other 3 cars all run dual points. Never let me down (can’t say as much for the TI). At least when the Chi-comms or aliens drop the EMP attack on us I’ll be able to make it to the deep woods.
Any carrier who is underwritten by American Modern is my favorite. Insurance availability is a State by State thing so it takes some investigation. I have American Modern through Midwest Classic Car Insurance. Also the National Corvette Museum offers classic car insurance for any classic car...