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It's been my experience that almost all vintage Mopars I've owned had the brake pedal above the level of the accelerator.
Almost all required you to actually lift your foot up to depress the brake.
No "heel toe" driving like on a gm.
Back in that day, wheelbase was a selling point and a status symbol.
The "one inch" was as much of a marketing ploy to make the Dodge models seem more upscale than the Plymouth.
Interesting article on Coronet value - https://www.hagerty.com/media/market-trends/1968-70-dodge-coronet-mopars-underdog-muscle-is-gaining-on-the-charger/
For posterity
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It’s no secret that 1968–70 Chargershave long been a favorite among muscle car collectors, but they’ve seen a recent drop...
Yes, it does just bolt in. But... it is larger than the block you are replacing. I had to massage the rear brake line to fit. My block ended up showing below the frame rail.
Looking for used braided line 5/8” INSIDE, to use as a shield to run my 1/2” aluminum fuel line (inside it) under floor by driveline-bell housing. For a race.
Thanks
im following this whole heartedly. i built my 6 pack setup based on what i have in my Charger now, vacuum etc. But ive not run it yet. Will be installing in the next few weeks.
@Bird 426
quick question, when was the last time you checked timing? what's your initial timing and your all- in timing?
I've owned an Eaton True Trac without issue but now that I may want another I went to Dr. Diff's site and he states seeing problems with them and sells a unit of his own.
8 3/4" Helical Gear Sure-Grip ("Sure-Trac II") Dr. Diff's unit
OR Eaton Detroit Truetrac Posi - 913A572 - 8.75" 8-3/4"...
I agree. The reason I bought a kit was so I would not have to do any fabrication. This is my brake pedal height. It is even with the accelerator pedal. I get a full stroke without hitting the floor. The pedal is 4" off the floor. The m/c is not mounted yet and the booster pushrod is too long and...