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The one we had at work used oil....but a water based coolant has oil in it. Machining parts with a lathe or milling machine used water based coolant that felt oily and nothing rusted even if the finished part wasn't whiped off.
I just use whatever is on sale 10w30 conventional oil in all my classic cars. The seal technology was not what it is today with tighter machined tolerances and newer style o-ring seal gaskets. Synthetic oils will weap in most old school engines.
Yeah, that's what I was thinking too - at cold start, I would want as minimum friction as possible. But, the shop recommended this combo to increase oil pressure. I was thinking 'if' I did run the straight 40w, then no Lucas additive as the 40w here in PA should be thick enough. But, again...
Bought an oil filter and battery for the zero turn. Been jump starting it with a NoCo pack for 2 seasons now...new battery was only $49...what the hell.
The slot is in the drive gear, it is engaged with the camshaft. You won't spin anything with that slot. Take the drive gear out, and the bottom end is a 5/16" Thats what drives the oil pump. The priming tool is 18 inches long.
I don't see how you could prime the system using the slot on the intermediate shaft. It's geared to the camshaft.
You need to remove it and spin the oil pump directly.
So a 5/16 hex tool is required.
I have to agree with Dwayne that if the relief valve is completly bottomed I've seen close to 200psi. Install the cup backwards in a small block and see what happens. My belief is that some oil is always bypassing. But by the time that there is a spring that holds the valve that far bottomed...
My question answered: "The windage tray is not necessary with this pan. It can be used in conjunction with minimal modifications, but is not necessary with the added oil control this pan offers."
i have a 74 charger with a 440 installed by a previous owner and am curious about what the engine originally came from. I suspect it to be a motor home or truck engine but cant be sure. i do know by the casting date that it was cast in 10-23 1970 but the stamped id numbers by the oil pan under...
It may not be as bad as you think. I (and my cronies) recently started 5 old Mopars (2 Challengers and 3 Road Runners) that hadn't been started in over 25 years. It's amazing how few of problems we had. It was fun. I'm not going to say what we did is right, I'm just telling you what we did. The...
Just went out and the screwdriver trick worked. Snagged it with my long nose vice grips. I know it turned a bit getting it out so not sure what that did to the oil pump position. Wife is looking over my shoulder to take her to dinner so back at it tomorrow. Happy wife, happy life.
I've re-read your post because I couldn't initially figure out what you're asking. But I think you're trying to determine whether the oil should shoot out with pressure in a stream as opposed to simply "flow".
Let's first discuss the rockers themselves. HS rockers, compared to other brands, are...
I currently have a fast turn ratio pitman arm on my 73 Charger there is a idler arm on it, how ever the center link is real close to the oil pan on the idler arm side. But has sufficient clearance on on the pitman arm side. I am not sure if the idler arm is the matched arm for the fast turn...
My new strange S60 had a whine for the first 500miles after a couple of oil changes it disappeared what gear sets are they using i found Yukon tend to be noisy.
For oil pumps,
High Volume = taller gear rotors
High Pressure = stronger relief spring
A relief spring doesn't even come into play until you hit the relief pressure. So at 20 PSI it doesn't matter what spring you have, the pump is putting out max pressure/volume regardless. With taller rotors...
This is a OEM 1970's Twist On Oil Filler Cap. It is original,
not a china knockoff, and is in decent condition, just needs a
cleanup and repaint. I can no longer remember for sure what engine
this came off of, but I believe it will work on small and big blocks.
$15.00. Local pickup, or buyer...