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General rule of thumb: If it overheats at idle/in traffic, you need more fan/shroud. If it overheats on the highway, you need more radiator. In my cars, I run the biggest, widest radiator that will fit between the frame rails.

I think I would add a shroud before I did a fan change. If you already have both fans, give it a try....and report back.

Original mini's used 10" wheels for many years, even mini cooper's. Later models used 12's The wheels on that escort and mini are likely real Minilite's There are numerous clone versions.

I say a direct drive giant seven blade fan with eat more horsepower than a clutch fan... and a BUNCH more power than an electric or two. I think my plastic flex fan is somewhere in the middle. Funny thing. I have two giant electric fans on one of my cars. Idles at 950 with both fans on. Care to...

The test referred to is one of horsepower killing. I think it tested how much power was drained by fans, alternators, water pumps, and air conditioning compressors. I may be wrong about some of those. I have over 50 em vids on my dvr....but not that one.

I suggest that a bigass fan will move more air than an Itty bitty one at the same rpm. Is that hard to understand?

If I remember right, you have an 8 1/4. At least that's easier to look into than an 8 3/4!

I think EM did that test too. Extra load on the alternator to run the electric fan (could have been a couple fans) amounted to so little it was hard to measure on the dyno. Bunches less power than a bad engine driven fan. (Don't care, gonna keep my engine driven fan, thanks!).

....and I thought the amount of air a fan moves had something to do with blade pitch, diameter, number of blades, among other things Oops, guess I was wrong. I guess volume of air only has something to do with rpm, proportionally.

I'm running the exact plastic flex fan in that test that sucks up a bunch of power. BUT! It's in a primarily bracket car (sees some street use) and it does a fine job of keeping the engine cool. Considering an extra 20hp might make my car one tenth faster, it's inconsequential compared to...

If you have a tread sep on the front, you might feel a jerk in the steering wheel, each revolution. Been there, had that.

Nope. I think I see a floor shifter. (If we're still talking about the red patina one).

At a race at pomona many years ago, a friend of mine pointed to a mid 60s El Camino, and said "that thing is 4400 lbs with driver" I call him a liar. Then the driver got out..... and the left side of the car went up a couple inches. 600 lbs, at least. His calf was bigger than my waist.

Sounds like an engineering failure. I've got spacers on three of my cars. All billet or steel, all made by me. Never any kind of problem. One set on an 11 second car, one on a nine second car, one on an ex 8 second car, that now runs very low tens) All of them have top quality 3" or longer...

I'd have to KNOW that the a/c works well. Nothing gets driven around here in the summer without a/c.

I like it a lot! Gen 3 hemi swap? Too bad it's 3000 miles away. Seems a very reasonable price. I'd be wary of a scam.

For what little it's worth..... I have a race 850 dp brawler... on a smaller motor with less camshaft.

I just re-read op's first post. Apparently he's got new pistons with more dish. If so, it's a matter of doing some measuring, and calculating, to get the compression where he wants it. Quench is nice if you can get it, and at the same time get the c.r. you want.

Maybe cause he's got a butchered block without enough deck height, and a set of pistons with too much compression for pump gas? I guess those millions of mopar engines with no quench all must be garbage too, hunh? I seem to remember Kern Dog trying alp kinds of things to get his stroker not to...

Head gasket.