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Some of you may have been following some of my threads and know I am looking to purchase another collector vehicle. I was focusing my search on a 64 Sport Fury or a 67 Charger. Well I ran across this and after a little research, I had to have it. No haters please, at least it’s not a Ford.

I would just buy and use a Dakota starter lug relocation kit. They around $12 and it make life easier. I have them on all of my Dakota starters. Tom

Everyone is going to want a salad bowl air cleaner after watching that. Surprisingly the Mopar dual snorkel did very well.

I missed that.

Dings

It's not too bad. Rings aside the glass is way better than mine. How much?

Never done that but have read about it. It seemed to come into play more with the all in one hydraulic TO bearing, at least thats when I became aware of it. Then again all my clutch jobs used a stock OEM bell housing so maybe I was out of the loop.

It is easy for those of us with nothing to lose to tell you to not worry. I've had a few different mini starters in the big block cars. They came with a bolt on offset terminal adapter, I run without one to keep the cables closer to the block and away from the header. I know that it is tight up...

Degreeing doesn't take long. It does help to confirm that the cam and timing set are within tolerances! How about measuring for bell housing runout? It sure is easier with the engine out of the car!

Degreeing a cam seems like a nightmare to me, I've only done one cam swap but that was back when degreeeing wasn't so widely discussed so I just lined up the dots and was a second quicker at the dragstrip that weekend.

Here are some better pictures. There is also about a 1/8" gap between the 2 terminals. If it were you, would you leave it or get the relocation kit?

Its more about the lug location on this starter. What do you mean by getting the correct sized lug?

I always forget the procedure to degree a camshaft. I have the tools but each time I go to do one, I have to refresh my memory about it all. I can assemble engines without looking up torque specs, do just about any suspension-brake-steering job without help but steps to degreeing the camshaft...

Thanks for the help everyone! I found the 5/16" inverted flare to 3/8" NPT adapter on Ebay. Its on the way:) For the barbed fitting, the local ace hardware store has a brass fitting with a 3/8" barb and a 3/8" NPT. Its in a package marketed toward air tools or air hose. That's just a packaging...

The first seven characters of the VIN would dress up the report. Full VIN can be part of the report.

I bought the starter version of some of those tools, like a vise mounted bead roller and a HF bending brake all to have new toys and patch my floors. Same attitude, it’s not perfect but it gets covered anyway. Some people saw the patches and said it looked good but I never know if those kinds of...

The E on the block tells us model year 1969 and a 7-23-68 casting indicates a 69 model year block. The H because it’s a 383 and the G because the OP said so in post 3.

If you get modeling skills together or a 3d scanner you can do a lot of things, I was looking at signal switches and with all the plastic I wonder if that’s a candidate, assuming if the plastic cracking is why they go bad.