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In my area they seemed to get daily driven for about 5 years. Then when I picked them up when they were about 10 years old they needed the quarters fixed behind the rear wheels. E-bodies had the trunk shot within 5 years, B-bodies trunks shot at about 10 years it seemed. Humidity here wasn't the...
I bought several new 400's. They were a terrific engine stock (much better than the same year 440's). Because the 383's had high compression they had the reputation of being much better than the 400's but that wasn't a fair comparison. Back in the day when we got tired of street racing our cars...
Rallye (Cool round gauges) optional on the 70 R/T although it was standard on the Super Bee. So the R/T could have had either from the factory. I don't know why for this weirdness but that's the way it was.
A new 8 3/4 setup will cost the same as a new D60. Just spring for a fresh D60 with the gears you want and forget about the diff. Or spend the same on an 8 3/4 and worry about it.
Actually with my 1981, my Ford and Chevy friends didn't believe me that I was getting 15MPG Imperial with it. Then they went with me on a 500 mile trip to Vancouver, then the BS stopped. Mileage was almost double what their GM and Ferd trucks did. 3.54 gears, lockup convertor and a lil 360 2bbl...
I love 70 Charger R/T's enough that I see no reason not to rebuild that one. A lot of cars that look better initially need everything this one needs anyway. It just has to be done right is the problem.
Lol: Kind of off topic but I remember after having E-bodies for years I was restoring my 69 Hemi GTX. This was about 1990 or so. I had a friend over and I was telling him after owning E-bodies it was nice to work on a B-body and they just had that solid feel to them that you could drive it...
After a year there is no chance he is going to make it right, If you don't out him, he's going to keep taking advantage of other buyers. You should not have let it go on this long.