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Let's get something straight first ... the switch is an absolute nightmare to get at once the dash is installed. Removing the bezel ... there's a good risk of damaging the dash pads. So, do every possible check on the motor BEFORE tackling the switch. That said, do you have the correct "3-speed"...

This is nonsense ... the switch is grounded when its screwed into the bezel which is then screwed into the dash frame.

That's a 2-speed motor !!!!

That angle can be somewhat corrected by loosening the three nuts/bolts that hold the column bracket to the framework under the dash. The lower end can swivel in the firewall bracket - no loosening should be necessary BUT if need be there are two bolts you can back off from under the dash as well.

Don't waste your time reading BS on Facebook and "opinions" by so-called experts. Read this: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

Oh I get it ... you're one of those guys that wears a belt AND suspenders, right ?!?!?! There are or were hundreds of thousands of cars on the road with calipers held on by those clips. Get over it !!

I don't know how they'd be "better" - what are you expecting to be "better" ?!?!?! It's all about how they fit - where the hose attaches and where the bleeder is - there is no "better". One thing you do have to take a good look at with these reman calipers (they're ALL remans these days) is...

These would also work :

What's that got to do with what the OP is asking ??

Correct.

Huh ??? The ballast only reduces voltage to the coil - not the rest of the car !!

Possibly, all my wiring was hooked up when I was looking for "key on" power. I "think" it's the last terminal/fuse - the only one that's single.

WTF did you say ???

I believe that circuit is "live" full time. It's part of the light circuit that turns on the dome ligkt when the doors are opened - so live full time.

I have a BRAND NEW one I'd part with BUT ... I'm in Canada !! We can no longer ship small items to the U.S. as regular mail - it has to go as "parcel" mail = more money (you know who to thank for that !!). Let me know if you're interested. I can post pics.

If I were going to remove drip rails I'd seriously consider getting rid of the front wing windows and related parts. And while at it, get some custom front and rear glass made to flush-fit in the actual opennings and get rid of all that trim as well.

If I were doing it myself I'd go for it - the thought had also crossed my mind at one point. But if paying someone to do that mod I think it'd be an expensive proposition. Having recently installed the roof rail trim on a freshly painted car I can tell you that the car looks naked (not in a nice...

You don't need to connect a battery if you use a meter. One side to ground and touch the tabs with the other. The key on tab will not complete the circuit. Now put the key in the "on" position and that tab WILL complete the circuit.

But some people will argue about anything !!

Getting rid of all the slop basically boils down to replacing every connection with a hiem joint. The z-bar pivots are usually ok as they are. The problem with keeping the over center spring on a diaphram clutch is at high rpm the clutch may not engage. The pressure from the spring and the...