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Are you sure it’s doa? Those units are very sensitive and must have a clean good ground or they will not fire. Don’t ask me how I know because I bought a new one once when it had no fire. Found the ground wire had broken inside the insulation and that was keeping it from working. Good clean...

Thank you for your help and measurements. I need to pull the old carpet anyway as it is toast. I was thinking about using some square tubing to make an adapter but I was thinking it might be too tall. I have some wood pieces I can play around with and go from there. Again, thank you so...

I appreciate your help and I will have to form a plan and see what I can come up with. If I really get stuck I may just make a nice little road trip to come and see you. I could bring the seats in my Gladiator. I’m just getting back to the seat now after driving the Charger for several weeks...

Original seats are gone with the tracks. I am currently on my second set of aftermarket seats with the knob winding recliner instead of the little ratchet that strips immediately. The other problem is I only have the driveway to work in as our garage is really small and not wide enough to open...

Those original tracks are missed and I recently purchased a contour gauge and am working on making some kind of pattern to match the floor irregularities and find a way to make a level platform to anchor the tracks and seat on. Not sure how this will go.

When you get this box fired up do a test on a good ground spot and see the fire . The engine will likely start even before the first full revolution. Mine always have. Major difference.

Unfortunately no, original tracks went with the original seats and that was entirely my own fault for not realizing that it would be smart to keep the tracks. I own this one.

There’s a good possibility that old MSD box will work fine. And as previously mentioned it will definitely throw some serious lightening out. I had one years ago on an old Dodge pickup running an LA 318 and it went with the truck when I sold it.

I’m following you on the seat track issues. I have tried several different combinations on my aftermarket seats and still can’t seem to get them sitting right and/or securely mounted. I have made some crude adapters and tried a few different seat tracks, but they work loose and the seat rocks...

Smiles are great

The rotor fills up the rim diameter really close to the edge. The caliper is centered on the rotor and needs some space to mount up over the rotor. This requires additional space to clear the caliper inside the wheel. I hope this makes sense the way I am explaining this.

Looking at this picture I am wondering where the caliper will go?

Maybe call their tech support and tell them what you have happening. I have a Sniper 2 and so far it has been great. I am not sure if the MSD system has a reset procedure, sometimes you can basically erase the memory and reset. Do you have the information manual or instructions?

That’s really unfortunate having to deal with all those problems. I’m sure you will get things sorted out and be able to get some good drive time in.

Reading your post I was wondering what the shop was doing to your car. Sounds like you had several issues after the shop worked on it. Did they do the install and initial setup? Or just an oil change and screw up your car? Any shop that works on these cars better know what they are doing...

The factory rod setup uses a long spring on the throttle that goes forward to help bring the lever back forward when the throttle is moving back to idle. The cable setup puts the spring on the bottom and pulls the lever instead of pushing. Really makes it smoother and adjustable from the top...

Mine seems to be one to one and works great. The cable stop on the end of each cable allows you to make very fine adjustments without changing the one to one, just a very small change directly affects the transmission shift points and partial kick down. I started out with setting up the cable...

Scissor jack and good tire chocks.

The rod pushes the lever on the transmission back when the throttle is moving and the cable comes in from behind the lever and pulls it back while the throttle moves back. This cable has smooth movement and the adjustable cable end up on the top instead of trying to adjust the length of the rod...

I had issues with the kick down linkage when I first put on the Sniper and then got rid of the clunky linkage with a Lokar throttle and kick down cable set up. Now I can change the settings from the top end by moving the cable stop at the throttle. One for the throttle and one for the kick down.