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I read it right the first time and understood. I’ll stick with the aftermarket suggestion of 1/4” in case of the random oil pan dent as in here, and to be sure it has plenty of suction area.

I love our swimming pool in the summer. Go for an early morning jog - then jump in the pool. Work in the garage awhile until my clothes and self reek of garage perfume - then go jump in the pool. Mow the lawn once the dew has dried - then jump in the pool. Unfortunately those days are...

Good eye!

Hmm, from Car and Driver: “Our test car scorched the drag strip with a 0-to-60-mph blast of 4.6 seconds and a quarter-mile run of 13.4 seconds at 101 mph. That means, as we go to press, that the turbocharged Trans Am is the quickest 0-to-60 sprinter available in any U.S. production-car...

Reverse is never quite as sure as the forward gears since it lacks synchronization. But if by sticky you mean getting all the way over into the gate - yes, some more fine tuning on the shifter adjustment and rods will probably help.

It may just be me but I can’t see having the strainer bottom touching the bottom of the oil pan (in yellow). A 1/4” of clearance sounds much better to me.

Did you buy the gauges new? All of them I’ve bought, most recently AutoMeter, have good wiring instructions with them. If they are used gauges try going to the manufacturers website to see if installation guides are there.

I don’t want the higher pedal pressure without the spring. And I like to keep the TOB firmly off of the clutch fingers when the clutch is released and I don’t see how that’s possible in the absence of a linkage/pedal return spring. All the lower spring is for is to cut down on linkage rattles...

GM decided to give it a try on the 70 Camaro/Firebird. I remember on my old Trans Am getting a dousing every time I opened the door after washing the car or a rain shower.

Well, as I finally lowered my clutch engagement point down to where it felt natural to me and I increased free play, the hitch in return of the clutch pedal cropped up again despite the return spring. After playing around with it, it looks like a lot of the problem is just loose, sloppy fit of...

I don’t know a lot about 68 and newer but usually the interior metal paint color is shown on the trim tag on earlier years 66/67. I believe (not sure if necessarily always true) that except for dash and steering columns, the interior metal paint colors were the same offerings/codes used for...

That looks like an OEM Mopar/Hurst shifter since it lacks shift stop bolts. Mine was fitted with standard Inland shift rods w/o bushings and transmission levers and it was pretty sloppy. I’m not sure if this is the way they were built though - with Inland rods and transmission levers. The...

So far my Steer & Gear box I ordered 1-1/2 years ago is performing fine. Not many miles but so far so good. They were also cooperative - they took my old manual box as a $200 core on a power steering box. Also I needed a different orientated valve port on top for clearance and they swapped...

My thought too. Good chance it could get lost going overseas and is sitting in an import warehouse. But most responsible sellers provide the tracking number. However, if it was shipped and lost it’s up to the shipper to pursue a claim as he paid the shipping and insurance and has the...

I’ve noticed that some rebuild kits don’t have new brass syncro rings. I’ve only worked on a Muncie and a Toploader but I couldn’t imagine tearing a transmission apart and not replacing the brass rings. But if it’s a syncro issue you probably will have a grunch noise or grinding trying to get...

The box has minimum lash at dead center. Lash (play) increases in both directions off center. So when adjusting lash the box needs to be centered.

Happy Together. RIP Mark

When you turn the wheel can you see any movement on the gear box side of the coupler in the shaft into the gear box? If not it could be the coupler has been apart and not put together correctly. I managed to put the shoe pieces into a coupler sideways. I somehow sensed I hadn’t paid attention...

Have you tried powering it up at all by battery? Light, speaker line output?

Could they be interference nuts? I remember the u-joint straps on my ERA Cobra they supplied in my package that I built were interference fit - a real pain. Don’t know where they came up with them. If not that they must be cross threaded or something.