Search results for query: alternator bypass

I've done a lot of searching here but haven't quite found the answer (i think). I have a single wire alt that is producing 14.2v at the back, but only 13.0 at the batt. From what i can tell, the wire from the alt is going to the dash/amp meter and has issues and creating some resistance...

You make some good points but you are definitely not bypassing the fusible link. The only way to bypass the link is to of course take it off, the power is still coming through that 8 gauge wire from the battery to the relay. I used 4 gauge welding cable for the Alt to battery and used 2 gauge...

Looks like the pictured aftermarket electronic single field wire regulator should work. Yes, running a single wire regulator (mechanical or electronic) with a dual isolated field alternator, requires one field brush to be grounded and the other connected to the single regulator field terminal. I...

You dont need any type fuse on the alt wire going to the battery. The power still goes through the fusible link with this set up. You’ll smoke the link way before you’ll pop that fuse unless someone has done a hack job on wiring the alt wire to the battery and you grounded it out there and...

I've been using my Bayite BYT-VAM-036 digital volt/hall effect ammeter for 1 year now and I have been able to get a lot of good information from it. Accuracy is +/- 1% and indicates direction of current flow so could be used in place of /in addition to factory ammeter. Nice feature is the hall...

The current flowing through the alternator output wire supplies very little current to a battery that's had it's initial drain replenished in the first few minutes after starting the car. The addition of a shunt alters the current-flow path that supplies the power to the vehicle. The majority...

...worked........ so i replaced the single field 35[?]amp alternator with a dual field 78amp squareback from a K car. i did the alternator bypass [went from the alternator output stud to the starter relay battery post]. the amp gauge now reads the amps discharging when the accessories are used...

For the purpose of clarity, let’s stick to only the all-as-stock Chrysler ammeter-based charging system discussed here without all of the mentioned added aftermarket misplaced loading at the battery. Typical heat damaged Chrysler ammeters are the result of the combination of resistance at the...

I’d check the wiring first. Clean everything and do the ammeter bypass. Focus on the firewall bulkhead connector. While you are at it, put the headlights on a relay I don’t recommend upgrading to the higher amp alts for the power. I always recommend because the higher amp MODERN alternators...

Wire gauge does matter. You can't go wrong going with a heavier gauge. I would go as heavy as is reasonable. if you know what the average cranking current draw is of your starter is you can use this calculator to help decide a proper wire gauge for the plus battery lead. Also good to have...

The red wire that is continuous through the bulkhead plug was part of the ammeter bypass I did in 2015. I changed the instrument panel too, to a style that used a voltmeter. The 12 gauge wire has a fusible link then is connected to the starter relay. This powers up the interior. NO charging...

For my 67 Charger, my ammeter gauge is working fine I doubt if I can find a voltmeter that could be a close match. I've already upgraded the headlights to LED and plan on doing the same for all the bulbs in the car. That should have less of a draw on the cars wiring. Now what if some relays...

Consider using one of the bypass methods if you intend on that load passing through the bulkhead connector - or pass the cable directly without terminals. There is no need for 70 Amps to be present under the dash.....unless you plan on doing some arc-welding while driving.

i like to run an alternator bypass, from the alternator's output stud to the starter relay "hot" post from the battery. this turns the amp gauge into showing just the discharge used with however many circuits are in use instead of running the entire load through the bulkhead and amp gauge. doing...

This is how I solved my dim headlights at idle. I recently installed an alternator from a 1985 Diplomat (60amp). I read Mopar made changes to the alternator in 1985 using a thinner stator between the case end shields as compared to the thicker stator in previous units. I used LEDs in every light...

I almost have my 76 up and running but the battery is not charging . I had the alternator rebuilt .I swapped the voltage regulator out and change the negative wire because of corrosion. I need to locate the firewall bulkhead connector and see if there is corrosion , do you know where on the...

Here is my take on this entire situation..... Back when our classic vehicles were designed and built the current load on the electrical system was MUCH LESS than we have demanded with modern accessories and modifications. Hence the reason to upgrade the circuit design. If you also bypass...

...bulkhead box with another one I had. Not running the red and black wires through the bulkhead connection box and doing alternator bypass. For now, I have the black and red wires attached to the same ammeter post. It took about 45 minutes to change the wires over as shown in 2nd photo...

Okay now we're getting some info! It's fairly normal for the OE-style alternators to NOT put out great at idle, especially "new" parts store units...that said they can still do okay. However! If you're actually showing a discharge at idle then something's wrong IF you're confident the battery...

(Sarcastically speaking)......I plan on arc welding, using 3/16" diameter 6010-5P red wire, maybe 7018 LH or 7024 wire, using my 200 amp alternator, engine idling at 1200 rpm as the power source ....and a ground of course, should I bypass the bulkhead wiring and amp meter or just the amp...