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You are overthinking the drilling of the taillight panel. Mark the holes,use a sharp 1/8 th inch drill bit for the pilot holes,then drill the holes out to 1/4 inch.
Not sure about the speedo....but I just replaced the Clock with a tictoktach....it was easy to do without removing the dash. 3 screws and it came right out. Yes...I was on my back looing up. Seat still in. But it was doable for sure. I also read I had to remove the dash to do the tach.
Are there any safety issues if i do not get to this right away? Should i just cut the nylon piece off?
Did you see any issues with the angle of the steering column where it enters the steering box coupler?
Thanks again
Thanks Dave, at my buddy's suggestion I also added a bottle of Irontite sealer, in case it was a head gasket or porosity issue. I will be flushing the entire system, just trying to decide whether I should do it now, or wait until just before I send the rad out to be recored. I'm getting tired...
That is a new awareness on my part, being my new car repairs are rather limited
As much as I detest more regulations, and as long as NHRA requires new seat belts every 2 years, how about this law:
FMVSS? requires any part sold that requires removal of one time/torque to yield fasteners include...
Torque to yield bolts have a built in malleability by design . They STRETCH ….
Gee let’s put TTY Bolts On A Diesel ?!
What happens when they Stretch ?
Hmmmm 18-1 Compression Ratio . How About 30psi of boost ?
Do you want fasteners on critical components that are designed to stretch ?
It’s up to...
It is the nylon bushing that was part of your lower steering column seal. The rubber part of this assembly is gone. You will need to pull your steering column out and purchase a new lower seal assembly. These are reproduced, and available through various reproduction parts dealers. This piece...