Search results for query: ammeter gauge bypass

I am planning on doing the ammeter bypass at some point as that seems to be something a number of people on this forum are recommending. I did buy and install the headlight relay kit from crackback.

I disagree on the ammeter, my ammeter in my 70 is constructed exactly the same as my 75 truck, studs pushed thru a strap. That connection can get loose and cause heat, just reaching g up behind a dash with a wrench and tightening it is a bad idea, 2 wrenches so you do not stress the connection...

If you want to run a 10 gauge wire to the battery or the post on the starter relay, you'd use a 14 gauge fusible link. The method I am aware of in selecting is whatever size wire you use, subtract 4. So, 12 gauge would be 16, 10 is 14, 8 would be 12 etc. You will get many responses whether to...

That's beyond my skill set lol I'm assuming you mean the fusible link that I have going from the starter solenoid and into the bulkhead. I can figure out which wire comes off the interior side, but if I get rid of it then I don't know how to get power to the gauge cluster. Unless I'm just...

That is WAY over my head. I know almost nothing about wiring. I did install some type of "ammeter bypass" a few years ago so power doesn't go through the amp meter (I think that's what I did) and it goes through a really big fuse instead (100A I think?). It is a 1970 plymouth road runner with...

The referenced difference in construction is exactly the plastic cluster frame of the trucks and the pot metal cluster frames of the passenger cars, as referenced in the Mad Electrical article. The plastic being much less tolerant of any heat generated by resistance at the stud head to ammeter...

I'm not really good with electrical so I'm learning as I go. After installing the harnesses I blew the link and so... I became very nervous about proceeding, I didn't want to screw anything up. I reached out to the local Mopar club, but no dice. I don't have any friends that know this stuff...

Disconnect the gauge.

Ok, that makes sense, my battery isn’t exactly topped off so it sounds like I’m ok there. It’s a ‘69 charger and putting it together I replaced the engine harness and did the MAD electrical amp gauge bypass, and other then the usual issues with the bulkhead, the rest of it was ok. The keys...

I had wiring that was bad internally. Insulator looked OK, wire inside was discolored with green spots here and there. Try rewiring with new connectors and larger gauge wire and bypass the ammeter. The general Idea on older truck.

First place I'd look is the bulkhead connector where the alternator wire passes thru, and see if its melted; next place to check is the ammeter. There is probably a poor or melted connection somewhere causing a voltage/amp drop. With running accessories like the fuel injection, sound system...

69 Road Runner with stock ammeter gauge. Car running great until I went to start it today and got one "click" then nothing. No headlights etc. Battery OK and have power to fuseable link (engine side) however No power from fuseable link to firewall connection. Tried to short out starter...

That would be considered a modified Chrysler charging system, then power connections can be made most anywhere between the battery and the alternator without the risk of overloading original connections/wiring, you lose the function of the ammeter however and the information it would provide...

I’ve went completely over this thread again, learn something new everyday and ate some crow along the way. Some things have changed like the likes of led lights. With the led lights you no longer need to do the famous headlight relay upgrade. My LEDs on dim only pull a tad over 3 amps and with...

as usual, you never take your time to read, but just to attack. i never say is my idea: i have life frustrations, but your personal life must be even worst!!!

If that is what he has he should disconnect both blue and green wires, then the drain would most likely go away Should also bypass the bulkhead connection of the charge wires. 1 the ammeter in our cars is not rated to 100 amps 2 the connectors are a known weak spot on the cars with stock 40/60...

It’s a 12 gauge wire, I’m sorry for the confusion. One guy recommended doing away with the 12 gauge alt feed wire and running a 10 gauge alt feed jumper wire and bypass the bulkhead and tie it straight in to the ammeter wire that I now have the 12 gauge alt feed wire tied in to. I don’t know how...

Your Fourth point is well taken......in general, there are too many self appointed experts, or those that rely on "my buddy's neighbor said" syndrome and blindly proceed with something they don't realize the consequences the could occur......AKA....the Mopar ammeter/bulk head...

UPDATE - PART DEUX: First, SPOILER ALERT: Fred is alive and well! :thumbsup: (After I fetch him a new battery, anyways...) I'm sure some are curious what the issue wound up being and uhhh... Well, I'm not sure quite how to explain all that has occurred today in Fred's surgery booth, honestly...