Search results for query: ammeter gauge bypass

@toolmanmike has it right!!! Bypass "ammeter" all together or run new heavy gauge wire THROUGH connector. My 71 went up in flames, did what toolmanmike did, ran it right to "ammeter", no further issue, this was in 1981-82. . Replacing entire harness on my 1972 build, not risking electrical...

As I mentioned, I don’t see a reason to remove the existant black wire on bulkhead and simply add the extra one if is still in working order. My idea at least is keep the main splice getting power from both “legs” connected to the power line, the one from the amm which gets the parallel path...

I had the exact thing in my 72 RR. Field wire to the alt was bad inside the insulation under the brake booster. I had to literally stab the wire with my tester 10 places to find it. Wire looked perfectly fine on the outside.

This is the age-old debate about ammeter bypass. Many people don't like the idea of all the charging current going through the bulkhead connector (twice) and the ammeter. Many other people will tell you that it's fine so long as you have clean contacts. A modern alternator can easily triple...

What jumps out at me is the “shunt wire” bypass, paralleled/defeated circuit protection for the stock under dash wiring. Should a short occur in the stock unfused wring or components fed by this wiring, it will allow close to 200 amps to flow from the battery before any circuit protection...

It all started with an almost electrical fire… Driving back from brunch with the family and got that no good acrid burning smell, then gray smoke from the footwell (this is why I carry fire extinguishers, though luckily didn’t need it this time. Limped it home and tore into the wiring under...

Ok with your adding the bypass you did double the load carrying capacity as now the black is essentially hooked to the battery.... BUT if the black wire is unprotected, and tied to the red wire at the ammeter connection, it will smoke the fuse link if an overload occurs. One other issue you...

Yeah. I mainly want to know if the initial surge on the gauge is a problem before I go full Nacho ammeter wiring fix. I’m pushing 60 and expect to see my gauge follow the turn signal blink at a stop. It’s part of the experience since that’s all we had back then.

You need to verify and correct the 40+ amp battery charging first, the OER gauge may not be that actuate, actual current may not be anywhere near that. A healthy fully charged battery is not going to draw anything close to 40 amps to recover from a start-up. Again, as mentioned several times...

Ok, so I've been thinking if I just put my OEM ammeter back in place for a while, and put in your mod with parallel wires or full bypass, is there anything inline that can be wired to the stock ammeter to prevent it from being knocked out of alignment like the OER gauge? Maybe I got a bad OER...

Are you running a high amp alternator w a lot of draw on it, stereo amps, fuel injection/electric fuel pumps, dual electric fans etc...? If not, no need to bypass ammeter. I did a full conversion so it's the same gauge, but the guts are a voltage meter. I have 120 amp alternator and a lot of...

So in that case, are just larger wires all you need? There are posts on the dodgecharger forum that outline exactly that with larger wires. Does that have the same effect as a charge wire? I was wondering if all you need is bypass and using larger wires, say 8 or 10 gauge, is the ammeter...

The batteries I've used are all NAPA auto parts brand. They can sit for 2-3 months or more if disconnected and still be good enough to crank this over if they are disconnected. The horn has never worked. The prior owner put in a doorbell switch and an aftermarket horn. I put in a radio, it...

The ammeter lovers will be in to tell you that you are incompetent and know nothing in a few minutes. :lol: I don't like the mad approach, however, IMO, the bulkhead should be taxed to provide power for loads requested by the cabin. The packard terminals in reality were not dsesigned to carry...

already posted on diagram. And yes, I’m pretty sure you can use the later amm onto the existant provision changing the face. Studs gaps is pretty much the same so no mods to the cluster… now diff stuff is if the A body amm is the same deepness than the 68-70 B body. Maybe will need to trim out...

just adding info... this would be the TIPICAL ammeter external shunt wire diagram. Some cars got some other splices to feed around some other devices, but this would be the tipical basic configuration. As everybody can see, STILL on these ammeters setup, EVERYTHING is still feeded from the alt...

Thanks. I’m looking to keep the ammeter and I understand bypass, etc. I think I’ve found my answers, so I appreciate all of the responses. For now I’m looking for a two field alternator with lower amps.

I ordered a 75A alternator, (thinking the original 60A was shot), no big draws in the system. It's my understanding from other posts that a faulty ammeter can be cause for the system to go dark, but maybe not associated with the charging circuit. I also have a new VR and starter relay on the...

You have a fuse link. When you overload that the whole system is most likely dead. There are some variants depending on year. You take a older car and load off the alternator stud you are asking for problems. Worse when the alternator dies and all loads are on that old wiring. Failures will be...

In a stock configuration, by-pass the charge circuit bulkhead terminals (the real weak link in the original design, always has been), check the connections/insulators at the ammeter then leave it alone. The ammeter will provide much more real time charging system status information than a...