Search results for query: ammeter gauge bypass

I usually bypass the ammeter. Just unbolt the terminals from the gauge and bolt the two terminals together. Make sure you wrap the connection in electrical tape. Then run an aftermarket voltmeter. I have read numerous articles on this topic. The factory ammeter is the weak link in the entire system.

Couldn’t disagree more with this blanket statement. Research the facts and address the real causes.

A couple points of contention there Nacho, there is not a level of total stock only factory loads at splice one that would gain any advantage of being feed from both sides, especially if one source is routed through a corroded or burned up Packard terminal. Most of these types of mods include...

Ahhh, I see! So going BACK to a 55 amp alternator really wont help at all? Wow

Ok several notes because I still can see lot of stuff is not clear. The alt just will put out whatever load the car requires as far is able to. Your car is what sucks 30, 40 or 50 amps, so the wiring must be matched to the loads it requires, NO MATTER the alt you have. The amperes are not...

Let me see if I understand this, the ammeter successfully alerted the driver to abnormal fluctuations in current flow in the charging circuit, as designed, and the recommendation is to bypass the ammeter and install a voltmeter? The factory ammeter, with tight, clean connections and good...

Well, after further research it is inconclusive if this engine is original to the car or not. I wish it was but certainly does not change my love for the coronet. I will operate under the assumption that it is most likely not the original engine and may be from a later year as some of you...

Information overload in that thread. What I caught in summary is that in pure stock form with no corrosion and tight connections, the ammeter is fine. This is one perspective. Another is...Dump the ammeter, reroute the alternator wiring to allow a direct path to the battery rather than into the...

let's see, "high dollar cars" ( mostly of the time being show cars ) don't have extra added equipments incorrectly sourced from batt post which is one of the most common mistakes ever made on our cars, neither have been driven enough. Aside this, the next big mistake is replace the battery with...

Here's a link to the MAD ammeter bypass. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Have to challenge one of your points, never suggested removing the original ammeter to splice run, it needs to remain. At 12 gauge, it’s more than adequate for original factory electrical loads, any additional loads should then connect at the alt side ammeter stud or at some point between there...

Agreed, and even better if reinforced, just the full scale won't be read due the calibration by itself, and as any path with incorrect wire gauge section for 100 amps, it gets its own limits where the heat becomes on the issue due the section resistance to that load BUT, a batt will never suck...

I will get deep on this later ( I'm barelly waking up LOL ) but just some initial notes: The "Nacho's upgrade" is just an idea taken from the original Chrysler idea installed on fleet cars, using a high load path throught the firewall. What's the difference on my suggestion? If your car still...

i see alot of great posts by Nacho thx! I have everything apart on my car right now with dash off etc. So I can run any wire sizes. So the wire size from the ALT to the BATT should be 8AWG? to allow for the 100amp future alternator. I dont care about stock look but care more for clean...

I definitelly don’t bypass the ammeter. There is no need for that when you upgrade the alt. What I make is run a parallel path between amm and sources out of the bulkhead if bulkhead terminals are still good, or replace completelly the bulkhead paths with a new one if bulkhead is already melted...

No, no no, I never said that... I simply said, check the ammeter and fix whatever related on wiring... but never said bypass LOL

Welcome to FBBO. This will get more attention if you post in the electrical forum but bypassing the ammeter is a good idea. Install a volt meter instead. Here is a link to ammeter bypass info. https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/search/20762552/?q=ammeter+gauge+bypass&o=relevance

So if I am understanding correctly, you are suggesting leaving the 12ga wire in place and running parallel. Running the parallel is just to take the load (if and when it is needed) but connecting the the new charge wire to ammeter with the oe wire removed. I would connect the cab/dash side oe...

You just re-started my heart. Had my gauge cluster out all winter for some rebuild. Don't have them back yet but wanted to fire the car today. No power! Wondered if related to the gauges being out. Your post answers that question. Thank you!

Just Wondering If Anyones Running a Dakota Digital Dash With Their Stock Wiring Harness? Got My 68 Charger Rallye Gauge Cluster Rebuilt a Year Ago n Saw The Dakota Digital Setup n I Want To Go That Route.. I Have A New Under Dash Stock Harness I Installed With The Ammeter Bypass That Was...