Search results for query: ammeter gauge bypass

I guess he meant about the internal insulation, not inside the gauge, but between gauge and cluster housing. If so, once again the fail was about unknownledgement and not the system or the design... again. Don't blame the gauge once again, you simply didn't know there was another insulation...

Be careful. That was my problem and I made a new insulating strip, but when I powered it up, I fried the fusible link. I suspect that there is another insulting strip inside the gauge that had aged and began disintegrating as well. That was the final straw that made me bypass it.

Ammeter + post was grounded big time, - post almost as much. There's my short. Last minute tightening must have done it, since I checked both, when I installed the gauge, no ground contact. Insulator still looks good, in one piece. Thanks for that, BeepBeepRR...yeah, thought about it. Have...

The main reason for failure of wires going to the ammeter is due to corrosion or loose terminals. Running the additional wire like suggested above will help with the load through the bulkhead. As long as you connect the wires together securely, you can bypass it. The ammeter is nice but...

Nacho Just chiming in on your post....I do not disagree with what your stating above. However, the OP made a safety point and it is "safe" to bypass it. Another alternative is to do a voltmeter conversion. The OP being the owner of his car did what he thinks is safe for him and his ride, I...

Personally, I do not disagree with your rationale and I also am fully aware of ruling out other potential gremlins....I had a 68 dart and a 72 duster bypassed for over 20 years and no secondary problems...I guess it was not long enough for them to show "other" culprits, lol... Now when I am...

A larger alternator will just be capable of handling a larger demand on current. If there are no increases on demand, nothing really changes. If there are additional power loads (eg. amplifiers, extra lighting, etc.), your wiring and connections may become stressed. I think soldering the...

Yes, you can bypass the ammeter going straight to the fusebox, but then you will never see the ammeter center out when the voltage regulator is "satisfied". You will see the meter displaying the actual amount of charging current needed to keep things in balance. Which is also fine, if you...

I edited a bit my previous post. hey, I'm agree ppl can like or not the ammeter and everybody decide his own route, but everytime I post about this, is just cleaning the concepts. Lot of ppl take their decisions under a wrong concepts they read around without wonder theirself how the system...

I had an electrical problem last year and found the same thing. The wires where tight on the post, but the nut holding the post to the gauge was loose and the connection was intermittent. I even heard some arcing once or twice. Once I found it I just pulled the wires from the gauge and bolted...

OK, read it. I have to tell you that electronics is not my strong point, but thanks to your thread, I understand this ammeter "problem" a little better than I ever have. I DID have the "normal" discharge, dimming lights etc. at idle. Always thought it was just the nature of the beast. After I...

Okay. I thought the numbers would’ve been higher on this. Here is the link to the voltage regulator I bought. It’s the same one I had in the car before. Couple questions- -So a wire from alternator positive post to the black side of ampmeter? -Should I do a heavier gauge wire from the alt...

Update. I figured out there was an issue with the high beam wire (red) so I ran a new one from the bulkhead to the floor dimmer and while I was in it I ran a new light green wire from the floor dimmer to the headlight switch. I still need to wire in the high beam indicator, which was on the...

With an alt able to feed the car demands, the ammeter won't get load going throught because batt will never ( or barelly ) source the main splice located on alt side of ammeter. The ammeter is related to the load coming and going to/from batt. As far you keep the batt out of the sourcing play...

That's a good idea Miller. My old engine harness has fried wires from the horn relay and down to the starter from heat. The starter control and power wiring are not included in with the harness, so I'll have to make them up and I'll use 10 gauge instead of the 12ga the factory used. I also have...

Also keep in mind I did not bypass ammeter. I simply avoided it with the new harness. I ran an "always hot" wire from starter relay to fuse box. No route through ammeter, no bulk head. just solid 12volt feed from relay to fuse box. this powers things like the dome lights which need constant...

Yeah, that sounds real sketchy to me, too. I wouldn't think that it would work because a voltmeter needs to see hot and ground. It might have been working as an ammeter instead of a volt gauge. The wires to and from and ammeter are essentially the same wire; you can connect them together to...

Like Crackedback says, there's lots of ways to do this. I believe Powermaster is just offering the quickest and easiest way to wire the new unit. Apologies first. I'm going to get in a lot of trouble over this but here is a very oversimplified diagram of what Powermaster is telling you. With...

I disconnected the black and red wires from my ammeter in my 71 cuda and bolted them together and taped them up heavily, leaving the connection tucked up just behind the gauge. Works well, but I also did the starter relay bypass and headlight relay upgrade from crackedback. Going carefully over...

I looked at this mod and came to the conclusion that the only detriment to the ammeter thing was mainly at the bulk head connector where there does not exist a positive contact point. Arcing is the real problem. I see nothing wrong with ammeters except when you exceed 60 amps or have any kind of...