Search results for query: ammeter gauge bypass

Since I have my instrument panel out and having read hours of threads on ammeter gauge bypasses, and seeing as my car's wiring is all fortunately intact and not full of scorchies and melties, I want to do what I can to reduce a future fire risk. I already have the battery terminal disconnect...

If you have installed a voltmeter , unhooked the ammeter and tied those wires together the same weak link at the bulkhead still remains. Voltmeter or ammeter, if you load the system incorrectly the same weak link is still there . Remember the weak link is the bulk head NOT the gauge. Now if...

Careful with that Mopar Connection article, it promotes the parallel “shunt wire bypass” approach, just more misinformation about this charging system I’m afraid. Circuit protection for the entire vehicles unfused wiring and components is severely altered with that parallel wire run. Voltmeter...

Yikes, that’s what’s become known as the “shunt wire” bypass, very dangerous for an all-stock system as it circumvents the designed circuit protection for all stock unfused wiring. With it in place it will also disable most of any ammeter response as charging current is routed across the shunt...

For my 67 Charger, my ammeter gauge is working fine I doubt if I can find a voltmeter that could be a close match. I've already upgraded the headlights to LED and plan on doing the same for all the bulbs in the car. That should have less of a draw on the cars wiring. How much of a draw could...

What’s the concern with the ammeter? The Packard terminals in the charge path bulkhead connector are by far the weakest link in the original design. The earlier screw terminals pictured above are a better design but would not apply to a ’69. Better off bypassing the Packards or doing the fleet...

As you well know from your reading, there are many opinions on this and I'm sure others would disagree... If your cars wiring is sound, insulation not crumbling, free of green corrosion leaching out at bulkhead connector other crimped connections and you have not added anything in the way of...

For my 67 Charger, my ammeter gauge is working fine I doubt if I can find a voltmeter that could be a close match. I've already upgraded the headlights to LED and plan on doing the same for all the bulbs in the car. That should have less of a draw on the cars wiring. Now what if some relays...

This.

Technically it’s an ammeter, no shortage of posts/threads about ammeters here. The pictures of the ammeter and terminals in OP show no indications of previous heat damage. As mentioned focus on the weakest link in the original charging system, the Packard terminals in charge path in the bulkhead...

My amp meter has been acting erratic for the last month. Reading high, then reading nothing, then reading Discharge then reading normal. When I read the charge with a meter, the voltage output is steady and consistent while the amp meter is moving around. The vr is new, the alternator is new and...

Is it possible to do the bypass but add two leads up to the ammeter? That way would the ammeter still work without all the strain on it.

Thank you so much! It looks like.. if I understand this all right, which I think I do.... A) The factory alternator wiring will stand as it will feed the horn relay (violet) and "splice 1" (black) of the dash harness. However, I will add a fused #6 from the battery positive over to the...

Agreed, this level added loads along with a high powered alternator should really have complete up-sized charge path wiring bypassing the bulkhead Packard terminals, a fleet bypass at a minimum.

I totally agree with the volt meter being useless as a charging system monitor but when Detroit started building higher capacity charging systems they switched to volt meters and idiot lights as the ammeter technology was limited to 65-ish amp systems. 100 amp internal-shunt ammeters are...

Its highly likely that you were sold a newer "rebuilt" square back unit....that would require one (of the two field brushes to be grounded) especially if you only have one field wire connection to the original alternator....a green wire. (If it's a dual field and one field is not grounded, it...

Been trying to read into this as I’m rewiring things and I’ve seen different posts on this but still don’t have a clear idea… All that I have to do is create a wire that goes from the alt stud to the starter relay, and things are ‘safer’? It’s been running fine as is, I’m just rewiring things...

I have seen a thread or two on A bodies. You have to find a volt gauge the same size and sweep that the original gauge is, disassemble it and put it in place of the original gauge. I will see if I can find the thread.

I've been using my Bayite BYT-VAM-036 digital volt/hall effect ammeter for 1 year now and I have been able to get a lot of good information from it. Accuracy is +/- 1% and indicates direction of current flow so could be used in place of /in addition to factory ammeter. Nice feature is the hall...

The red wire that is continuous through the bulkhead plug was part of the ammeter bypass I did in 2015. I changed the instrument panel too, to a style that used a voltmeter. The 12 gauge wire has a fusible link then is connected to the starter relay. This powers up the interior. NO charging...