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Never say never I suppose. Is it 100% black side to side, no wood grain at all on the dash?

Not that I’m aware of. Your spring might just be tired

Both of these guys have great ideas….look for a leak or collapsed hose. The switches “can” leak vacuum, but I’ve never heard of an intermittent switch (?) You could also look for something in the mechanical linkage bending up (?)

Dang…I need to do this.

Zero out of straight

1. There was a post about 2 weeks ago with a guy that had a set of rear shoulder belts out of the car. 2. In my ragtop, I just built a small piece of metal to attach the car seat “back hook” and bolted it to the cross member behind the back seat. I’m not “sure” if hardtops/coups have that ???

I’m running pro max plates in my outer carbs with the thin factory plate & gasket

You’re down to either the splice itself or the black wire between the plug at the bottom of the column & the splice. I’d double check that plug and push inwards on the black wire connectors from both sides of the plug. I’ve had several issues here & there with just 1 wire connection coming loose...

And those bumpers are reproduced new as well

I don’t think so, but maybe I’m wrong. I thought it was 12v battery direct???

Not Mopar specific, but it’s not a “regular” washer. It should be soft copper with a little larger hole. The hose “should” have come with it

Yes, check the connections and “probably” need a new headlight switch or rebuild yours. That’s a dangerous place to have a short since there’s no fuse to save your wiring in the headlight circuit

Run a ground wire from the column to the body near the dash. In 1970, the factory did this with a 6” piece of black wire with two loop connectors. It went from the column bracket/column bolt to a column bracket/dash bolt

After about 6 yrs, I finally got cruise control installed on my 440 Six Pack 4 speed car. Cruise wasn’t available on any 4 spd or any six pack. It works GREAT using all factory parts except 2 small modifications. I added a 2nd cruise stop light switch on the clutch pedal (wired in series) and a...

I run those and they’ve worked well. Mine are welded in

Not to rain on your parade, but “scary wicked” & “durable long lasting” don’t go together

Not all…kinda. The tail shafts are different (which can be swapped), but it’s much easier to find a b-body A833. The pre-70 (?) A833’s use a different transmission crossmember….but any b-body A833 will fit with the appropriate cross member

Don’t add a lowering block on just one side. You can sort of adjust the rear end by raising the front torsion bar on the left side & re-aligning the car

Adjustment is on the door itself in the door jamb area (near lock, etc). You need window guides for the glass