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I had a fuel pump come apart, mimicking a lifter tick or exhaust leak. It’s worth removing the pump to eliminate it being the culprit. Replaced it with a Carter. That was the solution for me.

$60,000 VIN: WS27L9G197314

51 working years of advise and 40 of them come next week working for myself with over 100 employees... Never burn a bridge.

Just shooting in the dark here: is there another crank that would fit a 383 block but be from an earlier smaller displacement engine, 273/361, that might have smaller crank flange holes?

Are used originals ok?

What's sad? I've seen worse sale prices. This guy is stripped to the bulkheads. https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/d/minneapolis-1969-dodge-charger-t-open/7889586859.html

Just got the email.

Ok anyone out there who has a Fitech 6 pack and Dakota digital gauges how are you pluming 2 coolant temp sensors. I really don’t want to put them in the radiator hose and a water neck spacer won’t work due to my a/c compressor is in the way! Any ideas are welcome! Thanks as always

See Post #6, I've had that same tool for years and it never fails. You get what you pay for, you'll never buy another one.

North, Nice car !!! Post a thread in "Classic Mopar Tech" sub "brakes,steering & suspension" to get help. Someone here will know.

^What he said. This is the original top, 2nd/3rd bows were tacked to the top pads. I have heard that sometimes flat head screws were used.

I don't know. She looks like she could be a little mischievious. Glad you got blessed.

Unbolt the pump and start it see if the noise is gone.

My 72, 10 mins after shutdown is hot as ****. Not rad cap blow hot, but gurgle gurgle hot. Get a laser thermometer and check how hot that block gets once the water pump isn't moving.

Stock 1970: 2004 Dodge Neon SRT 4:

The goop

North, Man oh man that's a cool car !!!

Put the Charger hood back together with the urethane damper epoxy, glad I took it apart and cleaned it up in there

Forever in Their debt. Nam too. Coulda been me.

I put Neon seats in my 64 Dart