Search results for query: *

I like the repro harness because I like stockish cars. When I worked in a Hot Rod shop we sold lots of those Painless kits. They are more inline with GM cars. The Mopar guys that bought them usually brought them back. I remember going through the catalogue and you could find smaller harnesses...

I'm sure it's advertised for the same price as he paid for it 9 days ago or whatever it was.

Cool cars. I think it all works out. A 68 Buy-in is probably $8k more expensive and the end results if similiar would yield $8k more in value. An E-body would be $15k more for buy-in and yield $15k more in end value. Rough figures I know but you get the idea. Just do what you enjoy. I'm in a...

I think you get it from your first photo where you are splitting it where the door jam joins the rocker (that's what I would do, just like the factory did it originally). You could certainly split the door jam however look how long that weld is going to be, not saying you can't do it, just I...

If I was doing it, that door jam and the rest of the assembly would be going onto your car in one piece, you want to bolt your doors onto it. That picture of the top of the new windshield pillar, you want fab up some metal to weld inside of there that go in about 2 or 3 inches and go up about 2...

Yes: I seen that. Making that right isn't too bad either, I would do that little job before splicing them. Easy to weld a nice patch in there welding 2 pieces of full thickness sheetmetal.

You could get run over by a Mustang anytime. Take it sooner and enjoy today because you never know. And if you have more income than you spend you can put it into something that can do more for you or your family anyway. Up here in Canaduh keeping cash hidden from excess taxation is a full time...

What Wild is saying is the best way to clip that would have been to use as much as you can, sleeve the windshield posts and join that whole clip to the car about 6 inches up the windshield posts. You need all that sheetmetal off the new clip anyway. So you have to figure out how to use as much...

I hate to say it but the most impressive 1973 would just have to be the SD T/A, great looks, great handling for the time and HP that was just as usable as a 66-71 Street Hemi really. 73 still had the cooler small rear window too.

You need the trim to confirm patch panel alignment and that the patch panel is shaped correctly. You can also look at the back of the trim and it will tell you where the mounting tabs were located.

Great cars and a classy company back then to put the effort into that event.

You absolutely need the trim on hand. You' want to cut that patch panel down a bit because a smaller patch panel equals a shorter weld required. That looks like a nice patch panel and your car looks pretty darn solid too so it should go as well as it can.

I've been in this hobby too long. I can remember buying new rotors and seal kits for my 67 GTX from the Chrysler dealer...

I like that actually, looks pretty tuff.

I've had 5 or 6 original paint cars and never seen a blackout on them. Mostly 67 GTX's but also a 66 Coronet 500.

I'm all for it. Better to F-up one of those rather than lose another nice Charger.

Not enough anyway. I love 71 Plymouths and Dodges.

They work fine on my motorcycles, no experience with them on cars.

Welcome: I remember seeing that car for sale about 45 miles from me. It looked very decent.

Good looking car. Doesn't look like it needs a $30k paint and body job?