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There were (2) 318s, the Poly and LA engine.
The LA 318 uses a longer reach plug than the Poly 318, the Poly 318 uses a shorter plug.
Just my $0.02....:thumbsup:
Note that mounting an oil-filled coil vertically, is for its internal oil to better circulate around the coil's internal windings for cooling purposes...
As a coil heats up its efficiency is affected and its voltage/current/output can/will decrease..
Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
This point needs clarification... :rolleyes:
A high voltage (20,000–50,000+ volts) is needed to overcome the resistance of the compressed air-fuel mixture and jump the gap between the spark plug's electrodes. If the voltage is too low, the spark will be too weak, or it may not occur at all...
OK...
That makes more sense..
How much protection the fuse provides depends upon its type(slo-blow or fast blow)
and current rating vs the voltage/current specs of the charger itself...
Again never seen one so can't comment more..
Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
As I posted previously..
Some Schumacher chargers were banned from sale in California due to not meeting certain energy efficiency standards,
yet they were still being sold in other states.
Regarding Harbor Freight chargers I recall there was a major safety product recall for certain models...
The older Schumacher chargers were banned from sales in California some years back..
As they were older analog, lower energy efficient design using a big transformer and rectifier.
May work fine for conventional lead batteries but not recommended for the later AGM batteries..
Just my $0.02...
The basic problem is based on the way a typical lead battery is designed, it uses (6) individual cells rated @ 2.2V each linked in series configuration equaling 13.2V. A layer of sulfate can develop in a link that causes a high resistance, poor conductivity condition causing an overload...
If the Battery Tender is that old, most likely it does not have the Desulfator feature.
It is crucial as the battery can have a high build-up sulfate buildup causing the battery tender to overload and possibly short out starting a fire.
I had this happen to me, but fortunately I caught it in...
Keep in mind... :rolleyes:
The country of orgin for the HEI module....
Since Delco(USA) stop making these, the majority are coming from the Orient
with questionable quality and reliability....
Try to use an NOS as they are still available, shop around..
Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
EZ to test switch..
Jumper the outside terminals to turn on reverse lights.
Ground the center terminal to test neutral start function..
Just my $0.02.. :thumbsup:
No idea..
I installed TTi headers on my built 383 in my 70 RoadRunner, no clearance problems with exhaust manifold studs and 906 heads..
Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
Crackedback is correcto...
US supplied raw materials of copper wire, connectors, relays, even solder (now up to $40 a roll)
has gone up exponentially in the last few years. So many of the off-shore suppliers have gone
to great steps by cutting back on the quality of these materials. Now...
Before purchasing...
Suggest U check their depth measurement...
Many of the off-shore products require modifying the headlight mounting bucket for clearance..
Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
For the last 35 years I have been sourcing consumer electronic components from the Orient for certain major brands, making >125 trips to Japan, Taiwan, Korea, China, Singapore. When sourcing and negotiating pricing, quality and reliability are frequent topics the target factory will typically...
On my 70 RoadRunner I had a starter relay problem, replaced it with an AutoZone China special....
Installed it and everything was fine for about (2) weeks then once again starter relay issues.. :up:
Next I bought an Mopar NOS starter relay, installed it and now many years later still working...
Within the electronic component market it is standard practice for the manufacturer to specific certain operating conditions for its usable service life either in hours and/or number of operations. For example, basic lamp bulbs or digital displays for 5000 hours, for a switch, relay...
Thanks for the comparison. :)
Keep in mind current is 1 thing especially for LEDs..
But to me brightness are the key points, for the OE incadscents and Halogens their brightness is directly related to their input voltage.
And considering in our older Mopar legacy cars where the headlight wiring...