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So what are the greatest pitfalls you'd say or what things should be done which isn't in the service manual? Or what made your last engine you built the best (if you care to share)?

Actually the reason for the intended mods is performance related not about gasket sealing. I assume it reduces turbulence below the carb. Hughes once offered the modification.

Another option would be to use epoxy to fill the cavities. Or shape an aluminum piece and glue/epoxy it to the manifold. Is this maybe a better option?

What precautions do I have to take if I want to weld on an aluminum intake manifold? I'd like to fill the spread bore pattern on a Holley Street Dominator (make it a square bore). Is it sufficient to bolt on a steel plate to the carb pad (basically a thick gasket shaped plate) to avoid warping...

Gotcha. I'll just buy hydraulics and remove the spring..

WTF??? Hydraulic lifters set is $114 and solid lifter set is $2000? What is Comp smoking? For that price difference I'll make the hydraulics solid...

Would you mind sharing how to make your own tops? How do you make the seams? Where do you buy the correct material?

Was talking about the left/right alignment not the up/down. The rocker bodies hit the pedestal (no shim used) and were still off from the valve stem - no way I could have centered it without removing material somewhere (rocker body or pedestal).

Have the 240 version of the heads and the same rockers. Used different hold-downs (B3RE) as I encountered the same issue. The bigger issue though was that the roller tips were not centered on the valve tips! I had to machine down the rocker bodies to properly center them (either the rocker...

Thanks again! These pictures are great! I only need to figure out the axle mount as I want to use the same ball joint end links you posted above - in order to do so the sway bar eye should be level to the the axle. Have to check but maybe I have to move the axle mount closer to the axle itself...

These pictures are great and I like how you did the axle bracket - looks factory to me! As for the end links, have you thought about using heim joints for the axle attachments? Or would this transmit too much noise/vibration to the body? Anyways your post will effectively raise the demand for...

Thanks a lot! I have a Diplomat bar coming my way and it seems that the ends are shorter than on a B/E-body bar (looking at pictures on firmfeel website) - could be wrong though. I was planning on fabbing a mount similar to what firmfeel sells but that won't work if the ends are indeed shorter...

Anyone?

Does a factory rear sway bar from a mid 80s Diplomat fit on a 68-70 b-body? Width is apparently 44" Has anyone done that already?

DMT (Detroit Muscle Technologies) has them. There are 3 pieces: one for the hood and one for each fender. They also sell on ebay: Mopar B Body 70 Charger 69 Daytona Bumper to Hood Seal Gap Filler Nose Seal DMT | eBay

I added (brazed) a bung to the radiator just above the fins so the probe is in the water. Reason was that the radiator temperature should trigger the e-fan, not the WP housing temperature (before vs. after thermostat). Temperature gauge is hooked up to the WP housing though.

It seems that not a lot can be done.. Here's what the library of Congress has to say about it: "Once paper becomes brittle, very little can be done to strengthen it so that items can be safely handled. The accepted traditional method is to line a document with thin, stable, translucent...

Great! That confirms the 1.5" and 1.75". Missing length is 3 3/8" then. Thank you!

I found the dimensions here - at least sort of as the picture resolutions is quite bad. I can read 1.5" and 1.75" distance between left and right but not how far apart upper and lower bolts are .. @rbkt65 can you help? please help identify these spring hangers

Does anyone have the bolt pattern for the front spring hanger for a 68-70 Charger? I assume 66-70 B-body should all have the same pattern.. Thanks!