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:thumbsup: It wasn't a criticism against you Greg. :) In my case there are no easy to swap out parts for these trucks - you're lucky to find even the correct parts. :p

Thank you guys! Appreciate it. ——— Danke euch Männer! Ich schätze es!

I meant nothing bad about Scarebird, just that parts availability will be much easier with a stock steering knuckle and 1973-89 era factory based rotors and calipers. I've heard of Scarebird providing brackets for vehicles with setups that were not compatible with factory Mopar brakes. In that...

I know that feeling. It took two attempts to get the right one for my A100. First one I got was a 3196, then ended up with a 4315 which is close enough - except the wire for the horn is soldered (soddamised) on the wrong side of the contact disc. I was able to relocate it - and leave...

They look a lot like Scarebird brackets as @Kern Dog said above. I run Scarebird gear on my fronts - A100. No problems at all. Nice brackets.

I know a guy who did that once ......once. My school friend's older brother - he should have known better being a mechanic. Working at home alone under his rodded Mark 3 Zephyr.....wheels not chocked, and when the parking brake let go, the axle housing dragged him by the chin on his back...

I know that ScareBird used to make adapter brackets and sell them with a list of compatible parts that the buyer then finds on his own. They often looked much like those that you have there. You would have better luck finding some 73-76 A body disc brake knuckles like these: ...or 1973-89...

I am selling a firewall section from a 67 satellite This is really solid and includes the non air heater box, brake bedal, gas pedal setup, parking brake pedal, dash frame, etc. The price for everything is 250 Local pickup in Van Buren, Arkansas

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If the car is on jackstands or a car lift, yes...the upper control arms should droop enough to rest on these bumpstops: If you have tubular UCAs.... If the suspension is at full droop and the upper control arm does not touch the bump stop....yeah, the shocks are too short. People advise...

Gene, I would say you have the wrong shocks. If the shock bottoms out/goes solid before the bump stop takes the hit, why bother to have bump stops????

There should be two wires coming from the dist. Measure the resistance between the wires. Should be 100-400 ohms. Then measure from one of the wires to the dist body. Should be infinity. If both readings check out ok, p/up is ok & does not need replacing. Where the wires are burned: slice some...

I NEVER use that type of 'extractor'. Extractor is a misnomer, should be called a 'jammer'. The design is such that it tends to jam the broken piece in even harder.

Yes, sounds like the oil filter is allowing drain back, probably a leaking internal valve.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

As is the case with me, I've stumbled through life unaware of problems that might lie ahead, somehow averting danger, all the while the Guardian Angel has cleared the path for me. I've never encountered this issue but am at least aware of it now.

Looked it up and it’s an artificial sweetener, I believe for the most part all artificial sweeteners are bad for our pets and so probably wildlife too. Obviously not great for us either, but I think it can make them sick or croak in less time than a human.

Reminds me of the guy who found out he had triplets. Said he wasn't surprised, he had a c like a chimney. Doc said you should get it swept, the kids are all black.

I've heard about it for awhile now. My turn in the barrel.:lol: