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1962 Chrysler New Yorker Town & Country station wagon.

I’m glad I didn’t get the 1” now. Not that I can’t handle a tail happy car, I’d rather not have it breaking loose every time I romp on it. Plus I am rebuilding the motor too, and I won’t be happy with anything less than 600hp. At least that’s my target, but I’m not ready to think about that...

You check each one for ohms, and don't connect anything to the grounded one.

I'd rather have to much front bar than to much rear bar.... To much rear bar is fun if you have the skills and are paying attention... If not you can be in over your head quickly... Cars set up that way are tail happy... So you've gotta be ready to countersteer if the back end gets loose.. If...

Lift the motor. I would just place a thick board under the pan and lift or use a cherry picker and lift.

Have to agree. We went with 1/8 wall 2x3 cut in the floors, all the way through the rear frame to the relocated spring pocket. Now I like the idea of Birdsong's, going through the trans x member to the front rail..

This is the one I got only for $16 less a few weeks ago.

I've done that. In the past, worked great. Recently...not so much. It's not a glitch...it's a "feature".

Pam cooking spray. I use Pledge furniture polish on my motorcycle helmet visors, inside and out. Helps bug removal (outside) and works extremely well as anti-fog (inside). And it smells nice!

He now says 3/4" bar, but yeah balance. Test drive. :)

I had a similar issue a few years ago. Smoked several Standard Motor Products 101 regulators (or so I thought) only to discover in the very fine print of the instructions that it is normal for the regulator to smoke during the first so many minutes of operation. I'm not saying this is...

I put a Torker on my 383 Barracuda, 3.55 gears automatic and headers only. It was a dog because all my normal driving was about 3000 rpm in town. For a stock type engine a factory dual plane was best. This was in 1975.

I know it's a gross oversimplification, but I'm going to say it's anyway. It's like three springs mounted in series...(1) steel K member and all the suspension stuff, (2) rubber isolator, and (3) steel body. You have beefed up two of the springs and still have one relatively soft spring. The...

^^^ What he said!!! :thumbsup:

From Post 38... In my 73 Road Runner, I replaced the rubber bushings with polyurethane. Part of me wants to be cautious about using steel inserts to replace them, but then again, my 70 is mounted solid to the body and I have no issues. At any rate, when I drove my 73 cross country both ways it...

You have to read my full comment. I said to get polyurethane. My comment "coming from a guy who mostly prefers rubber in his suspension components" is intended to strengthen the suggestion to get polyurethane (or even solid).

I have a 64 Dodge 440 with a 440 that I am trying to remove the passenger side exhaust manifold. The studs in all bolt holes are about an inch longer than the new ones I bought in case I may need them. The drivers side came off with no issues. The picture shows the clearance. Passenger side...

I recently bought a 340 block stand bore. Hone not bored. The cylinders wall look great at 4.042. Now is there any way to find out what car the original block came from by using the partial vin # 127282. And next question is should I just stroke it has it is to make a 392. Or just have it bored...

No time runs sucks, but everyone is on a level playing field. Not sure about elsewhere, but the D6 ET finals have been run this way for years. Off the trailer and into round 1.

...would you expect to find some gas in the engine oil? Or is that a problem that needs to be addressed?