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Thank you for this answer. This gives me something I can check! I do have a replacement regulator on the way. The harness I have has a green wire with a sideways connector designed to attach to the screw thread on the regulator at one end, and a matching green wire with a female spade connector...
I know, I’ll try to get better. Like I said Jegs won’t let me see the details page so I pulled what I thought was the same kit I bought off another site. Apparently it came in different sizes. Or maybe it didn’t. I was so happy when I found it I just hit buy and didn’t pay much attention to...
Instead of using the Car Tool connectors.....it depends on how fast you are going. The 2x2 square tube is very effective and even more so if you cut slots in the rear floor boards. I didn't have to do that on mine but opened up the front portion of the rear frame rails, and cut a couple of holes...
...like the rat rod had. Correct stuff on now. Got the caliper on and tightened up. Rotated the assembly right then left full lock and saw that the 90* -3 hose end is hitting the shock. Loosened it up and changed its orientation like I did on the other side, but still hitting. I can't rotate the...
Got mine from Summit. Got brackets also. 2 different cars. One car no pads the other car pads. Ok for a racer. Not the best for street. Did that for awhile then went to regular buckets when I went back on the street.
My 2 cents.
Actually when you said that I looked at my Jegs order for the rear to confirm. It's actually 3/4”, according to the description on the order. It won’t show me product details because it is out of stock. I think I bought the last rear sway bar in the country for a 74/74 b body.
Instead of the subframe connectors, right? I know I've seen a video that talked about how many of the connectors aren't designed well, and if they're not installed a certain way, they're less effective at best.