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...like the rat rod had. Correct stuff on now. Got the caliper on and tightened up. Rotated the assembly right then left full lock and saw that the 90* -3 hose end is hitting the shock. Loosened it up and changed its orientation like I did on the other side, but still hitting. I can't rotate the...

I’m a wheel guy and I’ve never seen those? Possibly unfinished Motor Wheel flys?

Got mine from Summit. Got brackets also. 2 different cars. One car no pads the other car pads. Ok for a racer. Not the best for street. Did that for awhile then went to regular buckets when I went back on the street. My 2 cents.

Actually when you said that I looked at my Jegs order for the rear to confirm. It's actually 3/4”, according to the description on the order. It won’t show me product details because it is out of stock. I think I bought the last rear sway bar in the country for a 74/74 b body.

Instead of the subframe connectors, right? I know I've seen a video that talked about how many of the connectors aren't designed well, and if they're not installed a certain way, they're less effective at best.

This looks like one of Chris Birdsong’s car. I didn’t see the post above before I replied.

So, you'll have 1-1/4" up front and 1" out back. Good.

HI, Ordered their radiator for the SB HD It would bolt up to the stock bolts .. the one that's in it now is wider and had been bolted into new holes drilled in to the core support ... so I'm going to need the stock bolts that screw into the stock mounting pieces.. does anyone know what size...

I'm not sure why you're comparing a sway bar diameter to a torsion bar diameter.

Yes, I would go with the 1.06" dia. torsion bars.

You can install 2" x 2" tube from the trans Xmember to the rear frame rails instead of using the Car Tool stuff......

It does make me feel better, cause I want my car to be done at some point. I'm already a bit miffed to find it needs the US Car Tool stuff to keep the windshield from shattering. That's not just money, it's weight.

You mean like these? Firm feel has them and the body mounts. I’m on the fence about using them. Most all of comfort will have been removed and upgraded with HD and urethane. I don’t want an entirely rigid ride. I’m thinking about leaving the rubber isolators in place.

If you head south to my neck of the woods in the future, you can have my take out 67 K. No cost. Lower and upper control arms too.

You can delete them without having Gold.....and there's a sticky on how to do it. Not sure if it's unlimited but you get a LOT more!

Courtesy, common sense and being nice has been in the can for along time now it’s all about getting ahead and instant gratification. I forgot its also about hey look at me and I didn’t do anything wrong.

Now you’re scaring me. The guy is very detail oriented, and I’ve been to his shop several times and seen his work which is gorgeous, so this does surprise me a little bit too. On the flip side, have you seen pictures of my sheet metal in the project thread? I don’t think you could possibly...

Sitting in them with no foam seems to fit me ok.....but wouldn't like using them without some kind of 'good' cushioning.