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Dang, I built a 92 GMC with a hot 11 second 406 sbc in it , never even thot about the lugnuts not holding up ..
never knew that about your accident , glad you`ve come thru it
I`ve got a set of 2'' TTI headers on my 68 fast back , they have surface rust beginning about 5ish years old , at 79 yrs old , I don't want to have the aggravation of pulling them , ain't much room in the engine bay with forward bars and a 505' wedge ...
not so fast my friend . I used the stock timing cover , welded a s.steel flat washer inside of it , where the button would rub on its side , not centered , then custom fit the button to it , ''about the cheapest way .''
Some Chevy guys shim between the cover and the water pump , with success...
yeah but, we had a rich guy in my home town that his dad bought him bigger and better than anyone else , everyone hard him behind his back , and joked about him all the time ...
replaced one of the furnaces , second time for that . Took 17 hrs hard at it , was supposed to be exact fit , "no way" , had to modify a bunch of stuff to make it work ., and changed the whole flue set up .
My 79 yr old *** ain't quite recovered yet , but better today ...
my experiance has been , they don't "have to be below the bottom of the tank" , just do the best you can and it`ll work .
Had 4 diff hot rods/drag cars , and only one of the was below the tank !!
I didn't read all these posts , but you could just put the ext. pump on the inside of the frame around the rear spring mounting point , got it that way on my fuel inj. 505'' barracuda , have always ran ext. pumps on all 4 of my hot rods , in basically the same area , depending on the body style...
probly not your problem , but we had a tractor with a 6 cyl Chrysler engine in it that did that every time it got under a load , turned out to be the coil breaking down under load ....