Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I rarely change the rear band. It is mainly holding a stopped drum, so there would not be much wear. The front band is grabbing a spinning drum on the 1-2 shift, so is subject to more wear. I would change it.
That hose connection on the bottom is for cold starts. There would have been a connection at your stock exhaust manifold to run a hose from the air cleaner too. On cold starts the flappers close off air from entering the snorkel and allow hot air from the exhaust to flow into the air cleaner...
I would agree with you on that also. I know everyone's view of "acceptable" condition varies but I would say if they were just solid body, non runners that were mainly complete they would be a good buy. Running and driving, definitely a very good buy. It's getting hard to find a clean bodied...
The "foreign" car appeal, only started with me in the last 15 years or so. I'm just so burned-out, after 50 years of mopar-only, and watching the hobby and people change.
I can hold my own MCACN show right here in my garage! I got a Corvette and 13 other muscle cars right here in my garage! And not one dog dish hubcap to be found! Lol
Thanks, it was getting quicker, with every pass as we were making adjustments. Then the shortblock decided to leave. One design issue, and several build issues by my long-time engine builder. Definitely, no longer.
I fixed them today. I had to add 1/2” to the length of the frame connectors several times. These are NOT the old ones that are marked with “L” and “R”, they have been retooled. They line up perfect with the rear frame rail flange and floor but fall short of the crossmember by 1/2. I have...