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Sloppy works just fine

You sound like the kind of customer nobody misses !

There is a "swoop" because it transitions from the front fender bulge to the rear quarter panel bulge. Unfortunaly I have no photos that really highlight it

Just curious why you need a steel one ??

Could be the wrong year/model mount. If the auto mount works, use it! If I remember correctly there were two different long tailstocks - with the mounts in different locations. Maybe E bodies and/or '71 and up ??

No. My buddy has that one. No difference.

I bought that exact one for the same purpose as you. It works fine BUT if you jack the car in the middle - like on the diff for example - it will sway to either side. Ideally you should jack one side and use axle stands for support. It lifted the rear of the car effortlessly with on 40 psi...

Why would a T-10 make any difference. All that clutch mechanism can be in place with no transmission at all !!

Use the US Car Tool boxes.

Dougs are ceramic coated ... unless you're a cheap bastard and buy the plain ones !!

There should NOT be a nut on the back of that adjuster rod (blue arrow) - that's just going to cause things to bind. Get rid of it !!! Use the long spring - it goes in the NOTCH hidden by the boot (yellow arrow) in the fork then to the bellhousing - which may or may not have a notch - I can't...

I would imagine its more difficult working with the car upside down. You should flip it back over.

These things are now as rare as hen's teeth. Unless you have a very good reason for this style, I'd suggest using the slider style - DR Diff reproduces those, they're reasonably priced and not all rusty and pitted! Just sayin' ... !

MANY years ago I took an 8-3/4 in to Mosers. They narrowed the housing and shortened and resplined the axles for $100.. While the price has no doubt risen, this would be your best alternative. Having mini tubbed my car to what appears the same width as yours I had Strange Dana 60 built. I...

LOL !! Was also just about to suggest Dougs ... then I took a quick look at the price !!!

I already told you that

Yes. There's sufficient space between the box and firewall to safely run the harness but I did cut a wide enough path in the insulation to run it up through.

FWIW, I had the heater box in and out FIVE times. Yes, its a PITA BUT the end result was worth the effort. The dash was out by the way !

Mine is dead center above the hump. Drilled the 2" hole then made a plastic two-piece block that the cables go through and it screws in place to cover the hole (photo 2). The heater is in place and the harnesses run UP behind the heater and are looped up under the dash. The ECU and a bunch of...

Yup, I had pin-type ceramic pads but sold them with the calipers