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I run 120 - 160 amp for EFI cars, currently running a 150A on my 5.7 in my 71 Charger. This came with the Holley mid mount kit and is recommended by them for the terminator X max system. While its true that most cars are not going to draw 150A the stability in current at that point is required...

I have a set of these on my 70 Challenger that has a 440 and they fit awesome

It appears I have 2 sets of the 2 spd stuff... :(

@Nacho-RT74 I know this is an old thread but I need clarification that my arrangement for my 71 Charger is incorrect. It appears that I have the 2 speed link and arms (the match the link) but on a 3spd motor? The wiper motor is from a 73 B/E body. I appreciate any help.

Yeah it was good, I still need to sort out a few gremlins but overall things are going well.

I was having some issues with the clutch, namely I felt that the Hyd TB had air in it because it didn't like to go into reverse. I spent some time working on that and managed to get it fixed up. At this point I could not help but notice I had an increasing puddle on the floor of what appeared...

One last burn out for fun...

Her first burn out, it moves out nicely

Here is drive by #2

Yeah I am pretty aware that a Challenger is not a B body having owned like 9 of them as well and at least an equal amount of B bodies. My point is that neither of them are prone to breaking the windshield due to body flex on a street car. Now maybe with big HP, slicks and a sticky track...

Doing a drive by while data logging (part 1)

Worked on the car some today, I think I got the clutch finally bled. My daughter filmed some of my drive.

Yeah not my first rodeo with them, back around 04 or so I bought a 91 Stealth RT for like $2500, went to get plates and they told me that the tax value was $18000... I ended up licensing it in ND (my home state) and then eventually relicensed it in WA at the correct value via a form they came up...

Subframe connectors are nice and I would say if you are building a sub 10 second car that you are actually going to race then you absolutely need them (and a cage). Likewise a street car can benefit from chassis stiffening significantly as it will handle much better BUT a lot of very fast street...

I have them in 3 of my 5 cars. That said know that there are 2 versions of the 80s version (the one in the pic with the black plastic). One version is for I believe Imperials and the like whereas the other is for like the 5th Ave, maybe New Yorker. The difference is in the area where the latch...

Buy a Lithium

I was able to do a cold start yesterday, it definitely started better but did stumble a little on initial idle but quickly seemed to find itself. I did add a little fuel on a section once it got to about 140 deg. Last Wednesday I went to the DMV and got collector plates for the Charger as well...

My bad, you are correct. The wiring harness goes down to the bulkhead connector.

I was able to get some tuning done on the car today. I modified the tune I started with (that the wizard built via the 3.5 TSLCD), specifically I adjusted the fans turning both on about 5 deg sooner. Now the first fan comes on at 190 (vice 195) and the second comes on at 200 (vice 204). I also...

It can be pretty intimidating but it isn't all that difficult so long as you adhere to some basic rules; 1. save the tune that got the car running 2. only make 1 (maybe 2) changes at a time 3. always save the tune after you have uploaded it and made changes, then save it again when you are done...