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Adding on to Dave's thread. The pic below is what I'm 99% sure was holding my sail panels in place.
My sail panels are light brown and warped. I didn't see any remnants of covering on them, so I'm assuming they were uncovered. Looking online the "uncovered" ones are all one color (dark) - does...
The Hotchkis, as you know, are based off of 66-72 b-bodies. The 62-65 cars use a different spring length, especially from the center bolt forward and back[ I believe]. If you want to run the Hotchkis, or any other 66- spring, Firm Feel and Mancini have front spring hangers made by AR Engineering...
'64 rear springs have a segment length of 21" from locating pin to front eye. '66-'70 springs are 22" , so, the newer springs will not work. They will push your rear end 1" rearward in the wheel well. In my ' 64 Polara, I have used Mopar Performance Super Stock springs. These are actually A-body...
I learned long ago their title is "Practicing Physician." You have to realize what that means. It is not much different than your mechanic. If you are not satisfied with one, you get another one and let him or her practice a while. I've been pretty lucky with the ones I have used. (knock on wood)
That is the real deal Lock & Stitch stuff... Which it seems is no longer available to the public.... Hopefully that will change... Cause it was the best stuff....
A little over a week ago, I was basking in 85 degree weather with bright sunshine and warm waters in the Caribbean. Tomorrow they're talking about 5-10" of snow at my place in NH.
I sold some parts, had a 10% off coupon from Summit along with some Cyber Monday instant rebates so......
For my '71 Road Runner:
For my '63 Sport Fury:
For my '74 Duster:
Drum and disc brake systems operate on different pressures so, yes, you will need the proper proportioning valve as well as a disc/drum master cylinder as the bore sizes are different as well and the disc brake port does not have a residual valve in it.
If you use a drum/drum master cylinder...