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The first time I saw a 68 Charger R/T, I was hooked. I said that is the car I want to own! Two years later there was a brand new 70 Charger R/T SE in our driveway! I have been a second generation Charger guy ever since.
On mine I had to remove the starter, motor mount on drivers side, jack up the engine and then install the header and starter simultaneously
It's a PIA compared to manifolds.
I am still only getting "Alerts" after I hit refresh in the upper left. I ONLY know that I get a "PM" when I get an email from FBBO to my hotmail. Basically, I have to keep hitting refresh and watching for the red dot on my hotmail tab indicating that I have a new email.
Best to mark the tube, pull the headers, and bend the header tubes on a bench. The jack will almost certainly mess up the torsion bar. Depending on how bad they're rubbing, my first try (to avoid removing the headers) would be to heat up the tube and hit with a hammer.
I use .060" as a bypass go to number because that's what the factory used with high pressure mechanical pumps. I use a 6903 pump which isn't high pressure. I know from track experience and monitoring pressure swings that lower pressure pumps bypass too much fuel to make top end power. I took...
On a 68 Charger, the header inner primary tube on both sides press up against the torsion bars…. If i had a porta-power or small hydraulic jack, can i bend those tubes away from the torsion bars, using the torsion bars to push against ?
Or would it wreck the bars?
I figured the tubes are hollow...
Good point. Good idea to drain the coolany !! The new headers will likely come with bolts - have some gasket sealant (not silicone !!) on hand to coat them when you install them.
Not a job for the meek !!
First tip is to buy a quality set of headers. You will curse every moment if you cheap out !!
Second tip ... RARELY will you find a set of headers that are a perfect fit - all bolts line up and the pipes clear everything. Have a ballpeen hammer on hand.
Third - you...