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If you’re looking for a HP increase, just apply the tried and true hot rod techniques used for decades.
Headers, intake, cam, etc.
Not much of it is all that cheap nowadays though.
Which mega cam?
What’s the CR of the engine?
Fundamentally, my suggestions are 4.56’s and an 8” converter.
Then I’d go to a DP carb.
Running at tracks much closer to sea level, my 3670lb race weight 68 Satellite went a best of 1.51 60’ with a 906 headed 383.
My advice would be to use whichever set needs the least amount of work done to them to make them usable.
With similar work, they’ll all make similar power.
When I first installed 2” headers on my car, it was part of a change to the whole combo.
Cam, converter, carb, gears, rear tires, SS springs…… and the 2” headers…..all in one shot.
The car picked up about .5 and 5mph.
I thought my car was pretty fast for what it was at the time.
Mid-11’s in...
The stock intake is a huge impediment for making real power……..especially when coupled with exhaust manifolds.
A pump gas, truly street friendly HR cammed combo will be very lucky to get close to 500hp.
Especially if it’s cammed properly for the low cruise rpm that would accompany tallish gears...
I must be losing my mind……..
I thought there was a post yesterday from the OP where he said it was solved, and that the issue was related to the ballast resistor.
Or was that some other thread?
Edit………never mind…….post 32.
I guess that means it’s fixed?
On a BB, the back end of the passenger side head has no bolt holes.
I don’t know the correct location of where the body ground was attached to the engine for the OP’s car, but I would have guessed the “extra” bolt hole on the intake surface of the head would be a logical place.
My only experience with a 361 was the one that was in my 69 Charger when I was a kid in the USAF in Sacramento, Ca.
That was long before I knew anything about anything.
I bought the car off a used car lot.
Opened the hood, saw a 4bbl big block, checked the 5th digit in the vin(H), figured it was...
The 2-1/2” reducer/extension doesn’t sound like the hot set-up to me, but it’s basically free to try since you already have it.
But I am curious to see how it plays out.
The “8104” stamping is a job number or work order number from some shop that worked on them.
That number was not on the heads as they came from Edelbrock.
The other dead giveaway that they’ve been reworked is the dull mat finish on all the machined surfaces from being bead blasted.
What that...
WAG? Sure.
After the issues are resolved and with the heads fresh, and a cam in the [email protected] range………I’ll go with 425-435tq/low 300’s for hp with the ex manifolds.
That’s assuming all accessories(fuel & ignition systems) are functioning properly.
A quickie bowl blend(don’t overdo it) on...
68 B body, manual steeering- Eagle 1-3/4, Hooker Comp 1-7/8, Hooker 2”, to the best of my recollection the headers had to be disconnected enough to drop it down some with the starter.
That’s after you’ve got the drivers side of the engine jacked way up.
The 2” hookers were easiest as I recall...
I’d be pretty surprised if some run-of-the mill 18” x 3.5” extensions didn’t show some improvement.
What’s the launch rpm, shift point, and fall back rpm?
I feel some important factors regarding cam/converter, and gear selection are-
-How rowdy can the engine be and you be okay with it?
-how loose can the converter be and you be okay with it?
-how much gear do you think you can live with?
All three of these items should be “on the same page” and...
The “just right” Goldilocks size for a combo like that are probably 1-7/8 x 3, like the Hooker Competition headers.
And even those would likely only be marginally better than the 1-3/4 x 3.
I’m also in the collector extension camp.
But there is likely a loss of TQ in the launch rpm/shift recovery region that may just be gone with the bigger tubes on that combo.
Don’t take this the wrong way, but that engine combo isn’t “hot” enough to make proper use of 2 x 3.5 headers.
But some...