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Without any photos, you probably need a new set of rear springs. Call ESPO and put your order in. THey are a few months behind on filling orders. Air shocks and spring type overloads are just band aids for 50+ saggy old original springs. Longer shackles too.
When the pedal goes away, it needs an adjustment to bring the throw out bearing closer to the pressure plate which will bring the free play closer to the top.
Here's a link to Classic Ind. light bulb charts. Just scroll down to view. Mopar Lighting Guide - 1960-1976 Dodge & Plymouth Light Bulb Charts
THere is A, 2 different B body charts by years, and E body charts.
Here's a link to charts on Classic's website. Just scroll down to the B body chart. Mopar Lighting Guide - 1960-1976 Dodge & Plymouth Light Bulb Charts
For a simple street car I like the Pertronix. The base unit without bells and whistles. I have used one in my Swinger for many years now without issues. It's a great replacement for points and condenser.
But the "checkbook balance" comment isn't called for. That in itself caused the issue. Take a deep breath and blow some air out of your puffed out chest. You appear to be a smart fellow, act like it. We were having a good conversation here until your comment. Are we done yet? (rhetorical question)
4a- Start bleeding furthest from the master cylinder first. RR, LR, RF, LF. A spongy pedal is usually air in the system. Does the pedal improve if you pump it a couple times? If so, it's air.
You guys are something else. Halifaxhops is our local ignition wizard. He rebuilds, restores and sells NOS parts for ignition systems. Don't mess with that Napa garbage that is sold nowdays.