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Yes probably very little metal removal, not enough to remove the hard layer.

Now that I think about it, if they are carburizing them, it would keep the plated area from getting as hard. Makes sense.

I recently gave away my fiberglass extension ladder. I did exactly what you described, left it strapped to the top of my van. Last time I used it I had so much fiberglass in my arms it drove me nuts.

This video is fascinating, I love seeing how stuff is made. However, I think the narration is either incomplete or misleading. It doesn’t make sense that the copper plating is critical to heat treatment, when it is removed from both ends BEFORE heat treatment. It may be that they need...

My linkage now is homemade from the pedal to the fork. I’ve used all three types of clutch, a Long style now. I tried putting it back to stock parts last year but I just wasn’t happy with the result.

The pics show copper on the ends of some rod bolts (not all.) This suggests the plating occurred as an assembly, and perhaps the nuts changed later. Bolt installation would occur after heat treatment. Just because 2 rods have a similar copper color doesn’t mean the same process was used to...

The process Carrillo uses appears to be something different than what would be used on factory rods.

I should add that I don’t use the over center spring. I only have a spring from the fork to the bellhousing as shown in the photo below from the fsm. I never have to lift the pedal with my toe.

I’ve heard the term and thought it applied to a ceramic button paddle type disc

Always one step up and two steps back. I was making pretty good progress the last few days. Both heads are on. A few of the lifters had coolant in them so I took them apart and cleaned them. That took awhile. I got the rockers on and adjusted. Then I got to looking at the headers and noticed...

If the clutch is so close to the floor it might not be disengaging enough to shift smoothly. I feel the same way about having someone else work on my car.

Now that I think about it more,You should check the FSM. IIRC there are two pistons and if line pressure is lost they will move together and can get stuck. I might be full of crap, like I said check the FSM.

I’m not saying this is the problem, but when you depress the brake pedal all the way to the floor you move the piston past the point that it has been operating in. If there’s rust or pitting there it may damage the seal. This is just a theory I have and why I try to avoid pressing the pedal all...

Sgt Hulka!

I’ve always liked the release pretty high. Lets me ease into it a little better and I feel its quicker to hit during a shift. But my stuff is either modified or homemade. I have stops at the top and bottom of the travel so I can fine tune it. It should be an easy adjustment for you, just the...

More stable than a milk crate. Not quite as comfortable in a rollover.

Thanks for the advice Doug, sounds like you’re familiar with this situation. I installed the head last night before I read your post. The JB weld thing sounds intense and don’t think I would try it with the engine in the car like this. I checked block and head with a straight edge and car...

Busted nose, adds character.

Yes you should find out if you need the extra .020” the spacer provides. I just wanted to post a pic of the catalog page so you can see that’s what is in the catalog, and that may be the only reason they are in your motor.

The Fel-Pro catalog lists this combo