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It’s in there

Sniper 2 showed up along with the Hyperspark. Im modifying my old Lakewood bell housing to work with the TKX, things a progressing finally

The Orange looks fine. Block it down and spray the outside again and drive the wheels off it.

I have all of the following for a 361/383/400 Mopar. Everything is brand new and never installed. Cost 1,000 from Summit. 6425 6AL 350$ 8545 distributor 525$ 8202 Blaster 2 coil 55$ 8823 mount kit 30$ 850120 curve kit 13$ 700$ shipped to the lower 48 for everything

Sold

Pending

I have a brand new CVF black powder coated water pump housing and water pump with a billet thermostat housing. Came with my Wraptor kit, but I already had new ones. The Water Pump sells for 98$, the housing sells for 158$ and the Housing sells for 65$. I’ll take 165$ shipped to the lower 48...

This sounds pretty damn good to me https://share.google/Ya9OPG0iuHVaFEwxF

Do it yourself

Everything is down low and looks very clean installed in the car

The Tailshaft/OD housing has been trimmed and clearanced for a better fit. It still needs a little trimming of the torsion bar crossmember to fit.

Frankfort Illinois, about 45 Miles SW of Chicago. I can meet up or drop off between Chicago and Knoxville later this month

I’ve decided to go with a TKX on my Charger, so I’m selling my complete, fresh Cope built 46 RH transmission. The case was professionally ceramicoated by LoKo performance, it has a JW Ultrabell, and a no longer produced Cope trans crossmember for a 66-70 B body. I also have a new mini starter...

Even the hidden parts a pretty lol

Got the Wraptor mocked up.

Picking up the long block this weekend, and after much soul searching I decided to bite the bullet and order a TKX from Silver Sport. I’ll either sell the Cope 46/47RH or store it away for a future project.

Unfortunately Ted is no longer taking on new jobs. He has been trying to retire for a few years, and can’t find anyone to take over the business. I had to beg and plead with him to take on my 470 Stroker refresh, and at that he would only do the machine work, not assembly.

You lost me there. A B body has better steering response and corners better with 5-7 degrees positive caster when running modern radial performance tires. I’m sure the sticky 10” wide front tires put more stress on the steering components than the caster setting

The additional strain is why C body Tie rods are a cheap and timely upgrade, and the additional stability is why I had issue with my Superbird. When I finally got to 5 degrees with welded and re drilled Ball joint sockets in the upper arms the car tracked true at 140-150 MPH, gave more steering...