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Thanks guys! Job complete! :thumbsup:

My concern would be that the epoxy will 'wear' with steering use, & I'll end up with *rotational* slop between the two pieces. Is it true that when the two sections are slid together, before any epoxy is applied... there should be no *rotational* slop between the two?

Well, I was able to get the bolts that 'matthon' suggested from Summit. Looks like there's plenty of room around the new [RAM] clutch cover for a 9/16" bolt head. If all doesn't go as planned, I guess I can always re-use the old bolts if they look ok.

Yes, I saw that 'customer-to-customer' reply in the Q&A. Might be more convincing if Summit had replied. I see they have a set of McLeod bolts (for twice the price!) that show the Plymouth application I need... and also show the same size as the ARP bolts. "Size is Size", right? (3/8-16)...

...would only use the epoxy to take out the play (which would return as the epoxy breaks down). My understanding is that the two-piece shaft should *slide* ("collapse") fairly easily, but should not have the torsional [twist] "play" between the two pieces, prior to any plastic inserts or epoxy...

Did the coupler rebuild already. I'm only taking about the actual 2-piece steering shaft (one end goes into the coupler, other end holds the steering wheel.)

Thanks much!! The pressure plate bolts on that link at Summit, only show CHEVROLET on their application chart. Is that the part number you used? Good for MOPAR BB?

Is Loctite recommended? If so, which one?

...hand, and twist these in opposite directions, there's a bit of "click-clack" between the two. Not a lot, but it's there. And I'm thinking that *at the steering wheel*, this will be noticeable as even *greater* play (& I've done a lot lately to get all the free play out of my steering). The...

I'm going to replace my clutch (including the pressure plate), and I'm wondering if I can re-use my old bolts, both on the PP & on the flywheel. ('69 stock 383 4bbl) I know it would be "easy" enough to do so, but I've got everything I need, except for new bolts & I'm eager to get started. OK to...

Man, how many times did that guy use the words, "Hope," and, "Hopefully"? LOL. And... it's always easier to do this job with the engine out of the car & upside down! I should have done an "engine in car" video when I did mine last year. Over 1,000 miles so far & still dry! Interestingly, he did...

PM sent to you. Thanks!

Ok, thanks John.

Ok, I’ve been away from my car for a while, with the holidays & all. RE this steering shaft, assuming that you still have it, ... my concern would be the flattened spline next to the master slot, ... I’m wondering if my steering wheel would slide over that spline OK without damaging the...

So I re-pulled all my bolts on the header that I had previously removed. ALL were wet bolts. Resealed with Permatex High Temp Sealer... followed the instructions: do not use on first 2-3 leading threads; apply to only 1/4 turn of threads (not "all the way around" the bolt). Worked great!

What’s the recommended sealant material for the threads??

Always a love/hate relationship with headers! Realizing that something as simple as a starter replacement = all header bolts coming out!

The two outers at each corner (2 x 4 = 6 total) ?? Is sealant use on the threads a *must*?

Spoiler Alert: Removing the power steering box on a ‘69 Road Runner 383 with Headman headers.... Had to remove the battery & tray, remove header bolts, remove spark plugs, pull motor mount bolts & lift the engine about 2”, remove starter bolts & pull starter around the header & pull the header...

Big block with OEM heads.... which exhaust manifold/header bolts are “wet”? (I have all bolts; no studs). I guess RTV is recommended on those threads, but is it absolutely necessary? (I reinstalled my headers without RTV on all the bolts.) Are *all* the bolts “wet” or just certain ones? Rick