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...needs to be set. You want mechanical advance to start around 1000 RPM and be all in by roughly 2800 RPM. You distributor should have roughly 22* of engine advance (which equals 11* on the distributor). Then with timing set at 15* base, your max timing should be close (although vacuum still...

So a couple of other things to check as well: * Check your distributor and the advance mechanism. Take the cap off. Step one is to grab the rotor (while it is on the shaft) and try to wiggle it back and forth/ side to side. There should be essentially no play. If there is, your shaft/ bushing...

That just adjusts idle mixture. You would need larger jets (or in the case of an AVS2, smaller metering rods). What has me a bit stumped is I assume you haven't changed anything internal to the carb, so that 650 should be providing plenty of fuel for your 318. I wouldn't start messing with...

Sounds like a lean surge to me, so my first guess would be to richen the carb up just a tad.

...big bore make the flame take longer to burn across the cylinder so you need to light it off sooner. 4) Some rules of thumb for mechanical advance: * Max timing 36 - 38 degrees. I run 37* on my 70 Road Runner 400 based 500 stroker * Mechanical timing should start coming in at around 1000...

It's a F.A.S.T branded distributor, but I think it is essentially the same as a MSD distributor with advance locked out (it has neither mechanical or vacuum advance - this is all controlled by the computer).

Thanks. I'm not sure about a crank trigger, but maybe I need to see how visually obtrusive that would be. The "theme" of my car is to look as stock as possible - I don't want modifications to be obvious. It has a fuel injected 500 cubic inch stoker engine, yet I have attempted to make it look...

Thanks - I was unaware such an item existed, so I stand corrected. I've actually been searching for the reverse. I have an aftermarket distributor (in my case from F.A.S.T) and it has the GM style cap. I'd love to instead install an OEM style distributor. The problem is, my computer needs TWO...

I'm not aware of any cap that can be replaced on a OEM distributor to change it to HEI. As @PurpleBeeper said, most aftermarket Mopar distributors have the GM caps. Some full size, some smaller... Edit: Here is a (not so great) picture of mine I use for my car. I have a FAST FI system with...

Could it be a fader between the front and rear speaker? This was an option for our old Mopars.

So I have questions, but want to challenge my own thoughts on this topic: Most of these systems then demand you change volume with your phone. Is that correct? My phone (like most) locks and/or is laying around in an inconvenient spot. For this reason, I wanted to control it through my radio...

I'll put in another plug for a converted original looking radio (like Retrosound, although there are other conversions - I think Aurora is one). Personally, I don't like the look of our old cars with some new, whizzbang radio installed - they look out of place. Plus, you need to hack up your...

I bought a Tick Tock Tach. About a year or so after I bought it the adjustment knob for the clock broke (maybe the third or fourth time I used it), so I can't adjust the time. Poor construction with shitty quality materials. :cursin: Tach, however, still works fine 8 years later. I'm not...

I agree with others above who have stated to check fusible link and wires through ammeter gauge. Something major went since you have no power at all, including interior lights. Get a test light and start testing wires for power starting from the battery and move towards fusible link and then...

Normally the battery is connected to the alternator through the ammeter gauge in your dash. The power loads from your car sits on the alternator side of the ammeter gauge. When the alternator is charging your battery, the gauge is therefore able to show this. Likewise, if the power loads are...

You say you have a 4 gauge wire going from your alternator to your battery - so have you disconnected the alternator gauge in the instrument cluster? With stock wiring the alternator charges the battery through the alternator gauge in the instrument cluster. At any rate, you have a lot of high...

Yes, I fully agree with you, and I didn't specifically state that. But in a way, that's like saying you don't need to upgrade your transmission if you put a 700 HP engine in the car and never put your foot to the floor! Invariably someone will put a high power radio in the car (or already...

I am almost afraid to get into this because it could become complicated... (This is not necessarily directed at the OP becuase I don't know how his system is designed.) A fusible link and fuses should be sized for the weakest link in the electrical system, not the most powerful. For example...

Well, you left off your question, but I think you got your answer anyway. You stated that you "smoked" the fusible link. The fusible link is really a slow blowing fuse. When you forgot to attach your batter lead, it burned up and protected the rest of your wiring. If you didn't have it, you...

Absolutely 100% agree. Note that the OP has added a fan that draws 20 Amps, so he has increased the electrical demand of the system considerably. If he adds a high power alternator, it will start feeding that increased demand through the stock wiring. Will it be OK? As I'm sure you know, it...