Search results for query: *

Where exactly is the pump located? Pics would be worth a thousand words...

You will thank us later if you hard line it now... For one, the braided AN stuff is going to flop around behind the belt and pulleys, especially if you install an inline filter(which you should do). Secondly, hard lines can and do reflect heat, possibly preventing a vapor lock situation...

The 4150 Mallory is internally bypassed, so deadheading it is ok. I would plug the return and set the pressure to about 5-6 and see if this solves your problems. If so, you have a regulator problem. If not, you have a fuel delivery problem. Also, make sure your fuel pump inlet is at least...

I too have a 500" mopar, had the ticking issue and found out that Comp had a bad batch of lifters. I replaced them with standard lunati lifters and haven't heard from them since... I also disassembled and cleaned them before I installed them. How is your cam installed? Straight up, +-X...

x2 on the selector shaft seal. I'm thinking about making a brass or bronze sleeve to go around the shaft, to seal it up tighter. But, it leaks down to the pan rail and drips off in several loactions around the pan. To be honest, I've never seen a 727 that didn't leak a little...

Any idea why my original yoke would look like this? It's the original that has been on the car, untouched, since new... I sand blasted it and was going to clean it up to use once I rebuild the diff. I have another one, but I'm just confused...

If anyone needs this info, these are the measurements, to the best of my ability, with calipers... Yoke Bolts W = 3.3125" H = 1.55" Carrier Adjuster Holes C-C = 2.625"

I'm at work and was going to stay over and make the tools I need for a rebuild this wknd. I need to know a couple of dimensions if you please... I have a 7290 yoke and need to know the c-c bolt spacing, width and height. I believe the height it about 1.6" but some say 1.5". I'm not sure...

I also had a question about fluids... The general consensus seems to be to use a non-synthetic 80w-90 and Ford friction modifier, but some frown upon this. I found this stuff at O'Reilly and thought it looked like it might work...

Yes, but not to that extent, maybe about 1/3 - 1/2 of that... It was leaking excessively and the seal appears to be damaged pretty bad... I just assumed the pinion bearing was damaged.

Here's my problem... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcNnY_j2T5k

I'm planning on using a Ratech CSE (crush sleeve eliminator)... But the car isn't stock, it has a 500" stroker with 600+ lbs of torque. I cannot afford a Ford 9" or Dana 60 swap at this time, so I'm trying to build the strongest diff I can with the parts I have laying around.

I have a '68 Charger that has a 742 posi. The pinion seal was leaking and I got a new one, but when I removed the yoke I found more damage. The outer pinion bearing is junk, and who knows what else. I have another complete 8-3/4 with a 489 posi out of a '69 Roadrunner that was rolled with...

Les Terrel built the motor and we tuned it. The engine has an a "cousin" that was built a few weeks before ours for another customer. It made over 550hp on the dyno. Ours has a bigger cam, more compression and a lot more porting on the heads. So, perhaps 550+ would have been a more fair...

Since the pump may be suspect, may I suggest an Edelbrock 1723 fuel pump. Then you can do away with the regulator all together. I have been using one on our 493 and it has worked great. It's over 600HP and has never starved for fuel. Just another option/opinion.

First, let me ask, is it a chrome 4.5-9 psi regulator (holley 12-803 or similar)? If so, I actually have some experience with this issue. I used to run one also, but found the pressure to fluctuate too radically. Even from cold start to cold start. So, I ended up removing the regulator...

First of all, I'd like to say hello and this is my first post here, so please be kind. I guess some background info would be helpful. I'm working on an RB 493. It has an Erson hydraulic, flat tappet camshaft. I suspected the lifters to be bad(collapsing), so I removed the top end to inspect...