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Actually it can stay open if you have a bad solenoid, like mine is on my 1970 RR. Vacuum is still in the system and the solenoid acts as an automatic bleed when the car is turned off. This happens regardless of the position of the switch on the dash. Now if you have a bad solenoid like mine...
RCD BILSTEIN front and rear on my RR. Could not be happier, the car rides great don't waste your money on anything else if you are looking for a better stock replacement.
I have used the race gas additive and I was pleased with the results. Ran it in my AAR which had a slight hesitation and ping under hard acceleration. Cleared it up and ran much more responsive, probably one of the best boosters available on the market. Ran 93 from pump and one 32oz can in...
I run stock valve covers and had no issue with the III distributor on that, but had head clearance issues and had to grind a little of the casting slag off the stock head and it fits with no issues and runs good.
No, 1970 steering column does not have a bearing or bushing their. 1968 and 1969 columns did. Just rebuilt mine last year it is free floating. If you need any pics or question about it just ask me. Had it all out of car and took pics of the whole tear down process.
Had mine rebuilt by FirmFeel as well, they have upgrades you can have done to it. I just had a stock rebuild and couldn't be happier. Think it was like a two to three week turn around (with shipping) maybe be less depending on where you live.
This topic is of great debate, I am in my mid thirties and love all cars, but feel in love with Mopars. I purchased my first one when I got back from my first deployment. A 1970 RR 383 4 speed and looked for almost a year before I found the one that had what I wanted. I shelled out a good...
I had the same issue this spring when I replaced all my brake components on my 70 RR. Blend with vacuum, stomped pedal and all above tricks. I went right to source and took the pin out of new distribution block for brake switch and replaced it with the one from my factory old one. Well...
Yes, I have the billet dist in my 383 RR and I had to grind just a little casting slag off the head for it to fit. Was not that big of an issue and make sure you bypass ballast resistor, it needs full 12V for it to run properly. I like it and have had zero issues with it so far.
I can say that I am running one on my pretty much stock 70 RR 383 and I love it(flame thrower III). It is a perfect upgrade from points or cruddy MP ignition. My experience with problems people have with this dizzy is that it needs full 12 volts from ignition, so the ballast resistor has to be...
Well not going to get into much detail but I am also an EOD tech, 6 1/2 years (2008 - 2015 )active now WV EOD guard. 2 deployments and lots of fun along with ****.
I have a holley 670 street avenger on my 383 roadrunner, pretty much stock with a little bit more of a cam, DP4B intake and stock exhaust manifolds. I would put this carb right on the money for a perfect setup on the 383.
Discount tire on ebay is having a deal till 3/16/2016. Save a hundred dollars with the purchase of 4 tires or wheels.
I just picked up 4 BFG Radial TA, 2 235/60/15 and 2 255/60/15 for $ 508 out the door with free shipping. I thought that was a pretty good deal.
Just wanted to know if anyone out their had one of these and if so is it worth it. Want to protect my new buy as much as possible for the winter. http://www.autoanything.com/car-covers/carcapsule-vehicle-storage-system
Car is still on the road and can be driven, just have get it out. Someone could have a nice car with a little bit of body work. Pm me for any info, photos or questions regarding the car.
Update: Purchased my dream car so the Bee must be sold. I am open to all reasonable offers looking for 22,000. The car runs strong and anyone interested should come look at it in person. The car is located in north west PA just 15 min. south of Erie,PA.