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That can be close. I measured with clay carefully first and had over 1" clearance before the phenolic spacer, now right at 7/8" as measured with clay.

Daryl Whitmer’s recent dyno run with his Poly Stroker motor. Made 481HP @ 5700rpm and 486 Torque @ 4600 RPM – 10.47 to 1 compression; will run on 93 unleaded pump gas. He is preparing his ‘66 A body...... Here is a link to a video...

Had the same 40's on my Poly and liked them - until installing the new Poly 4bbl manifold. Then switched to 50's for a more mellow tone - still sounds great when on it.......

Had mine on over 1,500 miles now - working great - fuel filter ease of access a big plus too....

Not seeing a recent thread on the new-ish Poly manifold. How about some installed pics boys. Have over 1,000 miles on mine so far and very happy with the performance. Recent update was to add a phenolic carb spacer to keep the fuel cool - and switched to ethanol free gas...

Very happy Wilwood user too - they do make a kit to fit drum brake spindles. 140-11019 (1973-80 to match later spindles I already had on her) - 14” Flex lines 220-7056

Good choice - Champion made in China welded tanks vs US Radiator aka CoolCraft made in USA formed tanks. Also what I chose for the '62 wagon: “Desert Cooler” aluminum 2 rows 1” tubes 14-16 fins per inch (Classic Industries MB2352A – US Radiator AL035037ANDZ) Hot tip for ordering from Classic...

You might consider the adjustable NORS arms, like Anco SH180 that accept Anco Turtleback Dead-Locker blades. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0&_nkw=Anco+SH180++++&_sacat=0 :happy3:

Still motivating around - bottom end on the to-do list next.

Adjusted my '62 Poly for the first time too after having the heads done. Cold method works great: “Cold is Cold” - Valve Lash Adjustment – EO / IC When Exhaust is beginning to Open: Set INTAKE. When Intake is 1/2-3/4 way to Closing: Set EXHAUST. Initial new engine cold setting...

I resemble that comment........

Here is what I used from NAPA when doing the removable drum conversion...... ND 440-1129 Rear brake drums BK 641-1087 Lug studs 1/2-20 UNF 0.623" knurl

Tranny: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ani-2272 Motor: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ani-2227 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ani-2228

I would get all new springs here: ESPO Springsnthings.com

Got some 4-door sill plate bling yesterday, 8pcs. Look good, a little softer material than OEM but very nice bling, especially since my 330 wagon only had the 4pcs inners originally. Double the bling bling! :sunny: From Hemi Eddie on eBay. Kramer also has them. Figure I better get...

Cast is a challenge - had a buddy who welds for a living do it. Go for it with the Poly torque monster 230 hp - 340 lb/ft factory rating. Plenty of motor for today's driving. :icon_winkle:

Wheel and tools mounted in place - cargo panels back in - finished in POL Raptor bed coating.... When I replace the floor pan up front will refinish the rest of the back floor.

Added a 16" space saver spare. Picked up one from a late model Lincoln Town Car - Mustangs also have the same 4.5" bolt pattern. The Goodyear tire still has the nubbies. Nearly same dia as the tires I am running. 14 pounds lighter than the original spare, only weighs 25 #’s. And will clear...

Bit of a chore with the learning curve, but did figure out no torsion bar removal tool is needed when removing lower control arms too. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Remove A-arm bumper (Before raising car)...

I vote - Keep the Poly. :D 2 Door conversion links: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/20547121 http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?19709-converting-a-4-door-to-a-2-door...