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Really good bunch of replies, thanks. CKessel, what did you mean ref to late wheels/flywheel statement? I have 12”rotors up front, but wondered what the above meant?

hi guys, lots of enthusiastic posts on folks fitting bigger rims and low profile rubber. On reflection, any comments on how the car feels ref Road feel, tyre noise, traction, braking etc.. Just curious as I’ve considered going to bigger rims on my 73 Roadrunner. Respectfully not interested in...

I fitted a JW 2,500 stall and it’s fine, but I suspect it would be better with 3.55/3.73 gears. Prior to that I had a B & M 2,000 that did well. On my 340motor

Not a teen, but my updated 340 with manual shifting thru the trans at 5,700 with TF2 shift kit and open 3.23gears gives me low 14s at around 95-97mph on the few runs I’ve done. Car is 73 Roadrunner. Motor has cam, heads, Air Gap and TTI’s, so certainly not stock.

I managed to fit a spare A body cable I had. Auto Car, cable goes through a groomer near the servo. Mine had popped out of the back of the speedo. Lying upside down in the footwell with a tor h enabled me to see up behind the dash and fit it correctly.

That momentary jump to lean when getting on the gas is familiar. My carb is also annular booster (Speed Demon) and exhibits the same symptoms.

I got mine from the Ramman aka Wayne. Fitted the big Cordoba rotars up front with pin style calipers and his home grown brackets. All Mopar parts and works well.

I decided to tackle the cause of my no start, backfire thru the carb issues. Cleaned some wet plugs, gapped em correctly, little more advance on initial timing. Bang, started right up and ran like a champ. Reset four corner idle. Pretty satisfying on a cold January morning.

I run 4.5” on my 73. Lots of space for the tires. 255 in 8” rim

235 up front, 255 60 15 at rear

Had those on my ‘73 RR. Fit fine, but still damn tricky to bolt up the down pipes. Now got TTI step headers, much better all round.

Ok, thanks hadn't considered that. I don't have a steering lock but can work round that. I'm not sure why, but this job has me pretty baffled. Can't work out why I can slide the coupler up and down the column (with rag joint out of the way) but not pull it off completely.

Ok guys, finally got around to this job. Got the rubber rag joint apart easily, but in can't seem to drive the small pin into the coupler (the one posted in the pic above). Is it usually difficult? Really awkward trying to get a hammer and punch in there

Ok, I was given a generic rebuild set with the orange sleeve. I had the impression that the centre hole for the steering column/shaft was too small in diameter. Anyway, I'll follow your advice, thanks.

That is such helpful stuff guys, I'm schooled now and understand a lot more. Just one of those jobs I hadn't tackled nor heard of until now. :thankyou:

Double post :thankyou:

Thanks guys, most helpful. Just one more query on the order of the job. Locate dowel pin and remove. Then remove rag/rubber joint Remove coupler for rebuild. ..and finally, what collapses/wears/fails that allows the steering column to flop around in the steering coupler?

Thanks guys, but I'm missing something. On the 72 down cars I can see the pin, however on my car there is no visible pin in the steering coupler. There is one below the rag joint where the steering box is, but what happens when I remove the rag/rubber joint, how is the coupler actually removed.

Thanks guys, really appreciate the pics, links and advice. One thing that is confusing me at this early stage is, how is the steering column shaft retained in the coupler (the box like thing) and what keeps it centred? Does it just slide out once the rag joint is removed?

Hi guys, my steering coupler is flopping around as the internals must be worn out. Not the tag joint which is fine, but the metal coupler above that as seen in the pics Can anyone tell me what parts I need as I keep getting pre 73 options which I suspect are different. On a separate note, I...