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I ran them for years as does Dad. Drone is very minimal IF the exhaust is suspended properly. Around 2000 to 2200 rpm you can detect it but way less than most any other mufflers we tested.
JG, that will be a great choice. The 17748 does everything very well. It flows well, sounds good, and is relatively quiet but has some tone. Be sure they hang it with "as stock of hangers" as you can find. No solid rods welded to the muffler and the brackets. :):)
Joe, no sir. I am not an expert on those and would never pretend to know enough to write honestly about them. I'd suggest a factory shop manual and pay attention to the tools and safety suggestions they have.
Tom
I do discuss some of the differences. In fact, one of the cars I featured was a 62 that uses the later pump and clutch retainers and input shaft. And, with the new pump and input shaft, he could use a late converter.
Wow, that is awesome BUT the frame stiffeners are really tight to the outlets aren't they? I'd sure think the only way to handle this one would be to do as another suggested and add an extension to the outlet. But, the bend is going to be pretty sharp. Darn. It'll be kind of tough no matter...
FMAHANNAH/Early Auto,
There is another way to do it if you have a way to cut flanges. If not but if you have patterns of both, I may be able to help out. Tom
I have had this heat riser valve assembly sitting around long enough and I am tired of seeing it. I hate to toss it. Does anyone need it? It came from my pal's 400 four barrel Satellite Sebring Plus. The valve has been carefully ground/cut loose from the shift. Pay shipping from 64086 and it...
They did all they could to be sure the pipes did not bang into torsion bars as the engine rocked. They put flats to clear the crossmember and the ground, in some cases.
If it was shoved in, it should pop out on its own. They can't have shoved things over the tail pipe and into the muffler. I guess you could tap on the pipe with a hammer and listen as you do and see if one area has a dull thud rather than a ring.
Fiberglass won't. If the case is not distorted, no way that 1/2" thick section of glass matting can come out the small perforations of the three tubes.
A good backfire could open up the skins/shells and let the fiberglass escape into the end cavities and then out the pipe. Take photos of the mufflers' front and rear view or at least one from the side if you can.
FMa, the only way it came out is if you have the case outer skin/wrap/cover separating from the inner. They can't blow the glass out if the muffler is truly intact and as built inside. They usually warranty issues like that so I'd contact the Dynomax folks. They are great people.
The Super Turbo matting is only about 1/2" thick and wraps aorund the three center tubes. The piece looks a lot bigger BUT without any size reference, it is hard to tell.
Like R413 says, it is a good one to start with. I crossed yours over to the next year and if not much changed, yours should have had these parts inside it when new (I suspect).
Long accumulator spring, 3.8 servo lever, standard KD servo with a long inner and green outer spring, the governor may...