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That little jumper clip goes from the metal fuel outlet tube on the tank, jumps paste the rubber hose and the other end goes to the fuel line running up towards the motor. If that's what your asking. Hopefully the metal fuel line is grounded to the frame/body of the car.
Only problem I've seen is that they don't like low voltage/dead batteries (that self exciting part) and not a bad idea to run the output thru a big fuse. And make sure the alternator is grounded.
The sell replacement 26" rad supports that will fit your car if you want to keep it stock looking. Or you're left with cutting and drilling to make it fit. I've seen some where they just stick a big rad in there and leave the opening the same size, one of those things.
As for phoenix...
Always wondered why the factory didn't use a separate ground strap for the sending unit. I guess that 5 cent clip on the fuel line was good enuff at the time.
Do you have the 5 wire, dual ballast resistor and the 4 pin ecu? My understanding is you can use the 4 pin ecu with either the 4 or 5 wire connector. And not to use the 5 pin ecu with the 4 wire connector. Might be easier to check out some simple wiring diagrams online to check for voltages...
That's fairly normal, since there is a big load on the belts trying to spin that monster vtwin. Possible the system is a little overcharged, making it work harder. If it's really slapping either tighten them some more or replace the belts. One belt might be a little longer or just tired...
I've seen those little voltage reducers do some strange things, being all mechanical. And since your temp gauge isn't working, it's possible the vr is bad. But like stated above, if it works by grounding the wire at the tank, it should be doing something when sending unit is grounded. You...
My easy test for fan clutches. Turn off motor while watching the fan. Good fans come to a stop fairly quickly, tired ones seem to spin way to long. I've never measured a time, so it's hard to say, but anything over a couple seconds of spinning is to long for a/c car. Even a thermo fan will...
Fiberglass hoods don't shield the electrical noises that effect the radio (snap crackle pop rfi). Why old vette's had the big shield around the distributor (points are real electrically noisy). Mainly hurts AM, Fm not so much.
Agree with above, carry a spare. Spare ballast resistor wouldn't hurt either. I'd go the spark plugs first, take it from there. If it runs good once it's started, me I'd just drive it.
To much oil, pressure will be high with poor cooling. 2 bad compressors in a row, possible. If the 2nd compressor is good (not damaged like the 1st), I'd really look into the expansion valve. Maybe one of the expansion tubes got damaged.
The a/c pulley is always spinning when the engine is running, so it's possible it's bad. The trick is to figure out if it went bad because the compressor froze up. So looking at that pulley, the center part is connected to the compressor and should spin freely by hand. It'd take the belts off...
By a/c pulley, do you mean the compressor clutch? If it's grinding or locking up, new compressor time. Unless it's way over charged with freon or the clutch is really bad. Like stated above, trying spinning the center part by hand, see if the compressor spins.
If there's a leak somewhere, a spray bottle with some dishing washing soap and water is your friend. Spray it on all joints, connections and seals. Just look for the bubbles. Evaporators probably the last thing to leak, since they live under the dash, but it's possible. Sometimes you can...