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update, dowel pin replaced, reinstalled new head gasket and pressur4e tested the cooling system with an auto parts store loaner test kit. Pressurized to 17 PSI and left overnight, next morning it read 16 PSI. The rediator is full but I had no way of circulating the water. Is this one pound...

thanks for the feedback on the dowel pins. I do have one on the rear of the block but the front is missing. However it doesnt appear to be part of the cooling jacket on the block or head. do you think it could still be contributing? If so, where can I get a new one?

Thanks, the machine shop checked the head and I need to check the block

Update and a couple of questions for the smart kids in the room. The head passed the mag pen and pressure testing at the machine shop and they couldn't find any issues. This leaves to either simply a bad head gasket or a block issue. My plan is to reinstall the head and pressurize the cooling...

I’ll take a look, engine has been running for 5+ years with no issues. Thanks for the insight.

white on both sides

dropped head off at michine shop to be tested

I did a dye chem test (Cantesco) on the head and cylinder and didn't see anything

thanks for all the insights and advice. ~ The valves and valve seats were updated when the engine was rebuilt during the build, I also tested the valves with some alcohol, The "white valve" held the alcohol for several hours with no leakage. ~ I plan to upgrade to some different heads once I...

fillled both sides of the valve with alcohol and both sides held it for over 5 min with no leaks

could it be burning oil.............

a friend asked if it could beoil buring and not water. Would oil cause the white valve? I'll test the valve as suggeted above and then plan to reiinsall the head just enough to test the cooling pressure,

Great advice

The cylinder & head passed 2 DIY dye pen test and they appear to be good to go. Thinking about reinstalling the head and doing a leak down test on the cooling system. I consider myself a decent hobbyist mechanic and I need to confirm the fail point before I invest in a new set of aluminum heads

ouch, literally blood . sweat and tears?

how visible where the cracks before the dye pen test?

another "fun fact" my car is a real dual badge GTX Roadrunner U code car. Fortunately I removed the complete, and running, number matching 440 and placed in on a stand in my man cave and built a second engine which is in the car. I remove the plugs, squirt a bit of oil in the cylinders and...

luckily all my head bolts were very tight

this is the only clean cylinder. I ordered a dye pen kit to check the suspect areas. If all is well, I'm thinking about reinstalling the head with a new gasket then pressurize the cooling system without completely reassembling the engine. Should have done a bit more testing before disassembly...