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Thanks

Yes. That is what I read on my 69 Roadrunner, but 675-90 on my 64. Same sender just too high of a resistance reading.

Yes please do that.

Are you selling some of them?? I need a water temp sensor for my 64 Polara. The one I bought has resistance readings from 675 cold to 90 hot. I understand the correct readings should be around 90 to 10.

Does anyone know the correct resistance range for the temp sensor in the water pump housing, cold to hot? I read 665 ohms to 95 ohms. The sensor wire ground test pegs my temp gauge but I never get a temp reading during normal operation. That's why I suspect the sensor.

Thanks, but I'm really enjoying it now. Just got home from a cruise night and it was a big hit.

I paid $2500 for my 64 earlier this year. 383/727 8 3/4. The guy completely rebuilt everything except the interior and body, but it wouldn't crank. It sat for 7 years. He finally gave up and wanted it gone. I bought it and found the connector between the shifter cable and the rooster comb wasn't...

My 64 Polara 383/727 8 3/4.

My 64 Polara

I would say it's possible. I had a pinhole in the block casting of my Roadrunner right behind the starter. It would spirt oil on the headers when you revved it.

64 Polara 383/727 8 3/4.

Toyota RTV. The same RTV I used to install it. Glue wasn't the correct word. I applied a bit in the grooves and held the side seals tight between a couple bricks and let it set up for a day.

64 383/727 8 3/4.

Nothing is trash when it comes to parts. Set them out of the way. Maybe one day you will need something on them.

Thanks. Mine may have been replaced more than once, I don't know. My fronts look like that and are fine. It's the rear I had trouble with. They are removable now. If I ever have to do the front brakes in the future, they will be too.

I bought a 1964 Polara 383/727 with a 8 3/4 rear. Everything had been rebuilt but I went thru it all anyway. The brakes were my latest project. The front were fine but the rear were not. In 64 the 8 3/4 had press fit hubs. They also swaged the drum to the hub so you need a puller to remove them...

Thanks. I will try that. The part that throws me is that it will fire and run great in the run position. Much more responsive dizzy, better looking too. I was thinking that the cranking is just drawing too much power from my cheap old remaned battery to crank and fire at the same time. How many...

Well, it runs great in run. Maybe the box needs the full 12V to fire it in start.

I'm just going the have to chase each wire and verify if they are going where they are supposed to and providing the power and or connection they are supposed to. The electronic ignition was in when I bought it so I'm not sure what all they did, but it does work as wired. There's a couple of...

I did not check the gap. I will find out what it's supposed to be set at tomorrow. It does fire and run when you release the key from start to the run position. When it starts it runs great. Very snappy response compared to the original distributor. The fact that it will fire and run great...