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You do not have to remove the dash. Just the gauge cluster.

I think it’s a ploy to get people used to the idea of using less water…can’t elaborate more in this forum.

I vote fix the welds, whether that means grinding or rewelding…just depends on what they are actually like. Paint the engine bay the correct color and go from there.

Guessing BH=bulk head.

The sending unit being grounded is the important part. Not so much the tank being grounded. Is the sending unit grounded to the metal fuel line?

Looks good on there :thumbsup: Probably made it faster with a Dodge part on it…:lol::lol::poke:

I’ve reread the whole thread. Detonation has been a common issue since the very beginning is what I gathered. Time for a compression test. List what you get for each cylinder. Make sure you have a fully charged battery when you start.

Probably easier to stick with a 69 style harness and just upgrade to the later style charging system.

You’d have to look at the FSM wiring diagrams to see if everything is the same on the plug side at the firewall. You can download them for free at mymopar.com As for the engine bay side. The horn relay wiring is completely different from 69 to 70. It could probably all be made to work but would...

I’m sure they have an Amazon there.

Some of the early 68 b bodies used the 66-67 style clips on the lower part of the windshield.

Gotta read the rest of the thread.

$$$ 68-70 426 Hemi Exhaust Systems

Yeah I figured 66 and 67 were different. Not much at all from those will fit a 68-70.

Is this the one you need? OER MB1247 OER Remote Mirror Inner Bezels | Summit Racing

@blue 66 charger Any resolution to this?

:lol:

The wheel should be included for that price. Absolutely insane.

McMaster Carr might be worth a look?. McMaster-Carr I just picked a random size. They have what looks to be all sizes and it specifically mentions for multiple belt drives.

For me, most iconic b body is the 69 charger.